tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post8257536321243638872..comments2024-03-25T07:25:49.145-04:00Comments on Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate: A. CaraceniR. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-603380202866237732013-11-30T13:29:01.125-05:002013-11-30T13:29:01.125-05:00Domenico Caraceni has been a genious, an innovator...Domenico Caraceni has been a genious, an innovator and the most respected tailor in the world. Please accept it and also accept the fact that every stitch in those garments have a reason. Tell your UK tailor to learn to stitch and not to tell blasphemies. <br /><br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-51366999636761379042013-09-24T19:33:59.573-04:002013-09-24T19:33:59.573-04:00“cugno Martello” apparently is translated as "... “cugno Martello” apparently is translated as "hammer dart." http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=3494#entry35114Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-78040807407384055672013-03-27T15:07:10.114-04:002013-03-27T15:07:10.114-04:00Could you explain how to go about blunting the cor...Could you explain how to go about blunting the corners with hand stitches? It looks to me like they could be done by sewing a diagonal stitch or two at the corner by machine...<br />JOSH STEVENShttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15114888889726912522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-35017368262088102522012-04-12T11:22:48.399-04:002012-04-12T11:22:48.399-04:00Anonymous- it's not so much in the cutting bu...Anonymous- it's not so much in the cutting but in a few carefully placed stitches, something that is a bit tricky to get right. If they are unwilling to try it, best not to push them into it because you may not like the results.R. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-44599347481647485632012-03-22T09:19:50.622-04:002012-03-22T09:19:50.622-04:00Jeffery, this entry, like several others, has has ...Jeffery, this entry, like several others, has has been an inspiration for me when I ordered a bespoke suit in Warsaw last year, and when I ordered another one (using another Warsaw tailor) yesterday. What struck me as rather odd was that the biggest challange for both tailors has been the blunting of corners! Now, both of them are very accomodating when it comes to satisfying a customer's wishes and have complied with a number of my special requests before (such as super-nice buttonholes - also your 'fault'!), so it is not the issue of a wrong attitude. What's more, you seem to suggest that it is easy to achieve this effect: all it takes is "a few well-placed hand stitches". Would you say it is technically difficult to make these stitches? If not, then I suppose my tailors have not been taught that skill, don't know the technique, and may try to achieve the rounding by cutting the fabric in these parts curvilinearly, which is probably not the best idea. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!<br />KamilAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-23327343027165490552010-05-26T20:36:26.658-04:002010-05-26T20:36:26.658-04:00As for the mezzaluna tacks on the pockets, a UK ta...As for the mezzaluna tacks on the pockets, a UK tailor told me that he thinks they are silly because they are rarely necessary, and when they are needed, they are insufficient so he uses a real bar tack instead. In other words, they are usually unneeded but useless when needed.<br /><br />I will disagree with this. Mezzaluna tacks hold the interior pipes in place and help support the stress on the pocket pipes. It binds the pipes to the cloth. Much stronger than a hand bar tack that is more decorative than functional. Actually I do bar tacks with a buttonhole stitch on trouser pockets.<br />DesposAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-9048083141124218142010-05-26T20:25:32.408-04:002010-05-26T20:25:32.408-04:00Jeffery,
Interesting post. I worked 3 years with ...Jeffery, <br />Interesting post. I worked 3 years with a tailor from this shop. We would blunt the corners on sleeves and vents even for the basted try on. The process after the try on was to make the lower pockets then turn the front edges, sew them down then baste on the facings. After the lapels were done we would position and make the breast pocket, cutting thru the canvass, haircloth and flannel. This is a nice method and accommodates a pocket square quite well. Because the pocket is put thru the canvass to the inside, the bulk of the square is between the canvass and the lining rather than between the canvass and the cloth. We would cut the haircloth for the chest in two pieces. from midpoint of the chest up it was cut in the normal way. We would cut the bottom piece on the bias and attach it to the other piece. This gave a firm shoulder and a soft chest. This was the last 3 years of 9 years apprenticing. Great experience and opportunity to make clothes in this way. Most of these techniques have been abandoned. <br />Thanks Jeffery,<br />Chris DesposAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-13715696018483661372010-05-26T08:13:41.717-04:002010-05-26T08:13:41.717-04:00Brian, I'll get to it when things slow down a ...Brian, I'll get to it when things slow down a bit. Been a little hectic lately. I'm sure there are more complex ways to do it than the way I do- my method is fairly simple but takes some practice to get right.<br /><br />Nishijin, this is just a regular DB. If the "transformable lapel" is what i think it is, I haven't seen one in recent memory.<br /><br />Thanks Dopey.<br /><br />JR. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-85888301947118496832010-05-26T07:35:17.188-04:002010-05-26T07:35:17.188-04:00For those stuck on the edge of your seat, I checke...For those stuck on the edge of your seat, I checked . . . Solito does blunt the corner edges everywhere I checked - sleeve ends, vents, etc.dopeynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-6298356915814501312010-05-26T07:34:31.061-04:002010-05-26T07:34:31.061-04:00For those stuck on the edge of your seat, I checke...For those stuck on the edge of your seat, I checked . . . Solito does blunt the corner edges everywhere I checked - sleeve ends, vents, etc.dopeynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-27520925428693289692010-05-25T12:56:59.463-04:002010-05-25T12:56:59.463-04:00Blunted lapel points are nice, but not so uncommon...Blunted lapel points are nice, but not so uncommon - I have suit and sportcoats from Solito that are done this way and are quite nice. Winston Tailors (NY) as well. On the other hand, Savile Row tailors seem to like the sharp corners. What I noticed on the Caraceni is that all of the corners are blunted. Winston Tailors does not do that (at least for MTM) - I will have to check at home to see if Solito does.<br /><br />As for the mezzaluna tacks on the pockets, a UK tailor told me that he thinks they are silly because they are rarely necessary, and when they are needed, they are insufficient so he uses a real bar tack instead. In other words, they are usually unneeded but useless when needed.dopeynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-24837103901333405492010-05-21T11:58:25.184-04:002010-05-21T11:58:25.184-04:00Wonderful coat...
As it is by chance a DB, would ...Wonderful coat...<br /><br />As it is by chance a DB, would it be with a "transformable" lapel ? I'm stil trying to understand how those work, it would be awsome to have the solution here !Nishijinnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-345062052084047792010-05-19T19:35:59.664-04:002010-05-19T19:35:59.664-04:00Brian, as far as I know it is a time consuming pro...Brian, as far as I know it is a time consuming process and they use a needle to pinch the corner inside. Grimod knows more details about it since he spent some time in Caraceni's workroom. I will ask him and let you know then.Gentleman's Gazettehttp://www.gentlemansgazette.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-73897161479490078832010-05-19T15:26:37.004-04:002010-05-19T15:26:37.004-04:00The finishing on that looks amazing.
I would love...The finishing on that looks amazing.<br /><br />I would love to learn the technique on how to blunt those corners, especially at the gorge. I'm not a fan of the sharp corners. If you're taking requests on quickie tutorials, I'd love to see that one.BrianWnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-83550265197510354622010-05-18T18:18:47.483-04:002010-05-18T18:18:47.483-04:00I am glad it did not get lost in the mail! Thank y...I am glad it did not get lost in the mail! Thank you Jeffrey for dissecting the suit and a Big thanks to Grimod aka Vaux le Vicomte who so kindly donated this suit.Gentleman's Gazettehttp://www.gentlemansgazette.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-11984243955253179402010-05-18T06:43:22.880-04:002010-05-18T06:43:22.880-04:00Wow! Fascinating inside view. Just want to say tha...Wow! Fascinating inside view. Just want to say thanks!Sophienoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-39802673107292473582010-05-17T23:52:45.028-04:002010-05-17T23:52:45.028-04:00Goodness! the handsewn work and meticulous attenti...Goodness! the handsewn work and meticulous attention to detailing on this Caraceni suit is remarkable; but, then, topnotch Italian tailoring is fascinating to study upclose. I look forward to the updates and more secrets being revealed about the Caraceni artistry.<br /><br />Funny thing about these dissections, Jeffery. The more you do, the more knowledgeable and discerning we become about tailoring.<br /><br />JMBJordan Marchttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09187029720569656533noreply@blogger.com