tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post110047871395060735..comments2024-03-25T07:25:49.145-04:00Comments on Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate: Steed Savile RowR. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-53347537911435875402018-02-15T15:45:29.901-05:002018-02-15T15:45:29.901-05:00When I spoke to Steed via email last year, they to...When I spoke to Steed via email last year, they told me they are one of the minority of English tailors (Savile Row and otherwise) that have the quality and quantity of hand stitching and overall quality of French and Japanese tailors along with never outsourcing any of the work that they do to anybody, being it hand made bespoke or alterations, just like the French and Japanese. The reason they are priced lower than most Savile Row tailors is because their supply is always a little higher than their demand (though both are high) and their workshop is in Cumbria (which is a wealthy rural town in northern England; their shop for fittings in on Savile Row in London). Cumbria has far lower insurance and rent costs that any part of London (especially Savile Row and Jermyn Street).<br /><br />Plus, Steed relies a lot less on advertising and has more simplified offerings than most Savile Row tailors. There's no ready to wear and the only garments that they make are for casual dress, dress and formal (mostly the latter two and they don't make duffle coats, pea coats and trench coats).<br /><br />They don't do women's clothing either. But that's only because no women or far too few women have clamored for clothing from Steed in the 23 years they've been in business.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-2282124301473669332018-02-15T14:11:49.198-05:002018-02-15T14:11:49.198-05:00Contrary to what I said yesterday, when I exchange...Contrary to what I said yesterday, when I exchanged emails with Steed last year, they told me that all of their hand made bespoke garments are completely hand finished (including the armholes and shoulders of coats) by all of their tailors. Steed also told me that if there's any machine finishing in their hand made bespoke garments, it's only because their clients took their garments to offsite alterations tailors to be altered and are otherwise completely hand finished. For what it's worth, Steed strongly recommends that all of their garments are altered by nobody other than Steed themselves.<br /><br />Of course, as I said yesterday, when I exchanged emails with Steed last year, they told me that the setting of the coat sleeves and stitching of the coat shoulders has always been done by hand by their older tailors and, for many years now, by their younger tailors (who, again, originally set the coat sleeves and stitched the coat shoulders by machine).<br /><br />The only machine work in Steed's hand made bespoke garments is two layers of black solid cotton flannel fabric being stitched between two layers of lining fabric (this stitching is done by machine in some areas and by hand in others). These layers of fabric are stitched together before being stitched to the garment then stitched to the garment entirely by hand. All of this is what I was told in our email exchanges last year.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-91629004335649515472018-02-14T09:26:41.329-05:002018-02-14T09:26:41.329-05:00I emailed Steed last year about the armhole and sh...I emailed Steed last year about the armhole and shoulder seam finishing and sewing and they told me that for many years, that’s been done by hand by all of their tailors. It was always done by hand by their older tailors and originally done by machine by the younger tailors.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-62574583605763989002011-12-21T16:04:45.236-05:002011-12-21T16:04:45.236-05:00I have an MTM suit from Steeds - about a year old....I have an MTM suit from Steeds - about a year old. It fits perfectly and wears well, no creases even after 2 days of constant use. I'm not sure Bespoke would have been worth the extra money. I highly recommend them.Frihed89https://www.blogger.com/profile/16063439450208641189noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-85826314230281226192011-08-29T08:45:23.576-04:002011-08-29T08:45:23.576-04:00Yes, it is supposed to remain- it helps to keep th...Yes, it is supposed to remain- it helps to keep the point of the peak flat and tight to the collar.R. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-24008866052746237372011-08-25T21:40:55.212-04:002011-08-25T21:40:55.212-04:00I've been noticing on both bespoke and RTW gar...I've been noticing on both bespoke and RTW garments, Peak lapels will have some stitching connecting to the collar. What is the purpose, and is it supposed to remain, or be removed (like the stitches closing a pocket)?Seanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11383151841155398836noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-16857936983210853202011-06-16T09:00:43.724-04:002011-06-16T09:00:43.724-04:00Nice postNice postMariahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15948115149015814935noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-22872951358716881982010-02-13T11:11:35.026-05:002010-02-13T11:11:35.026-05:00Thank you, I really appreciate your help. I will ...Thank you, I really appreciate your help. I will continue to follow your site, it's really awesome.<br /><br />Best Regards<br />TerryTerry Corbetthttp://www.mysocietynewyork.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-12300150036825520892010-02-07T14:44:06.094-05:002010-02-07T14:44:06.094-05:00Thank you, Terry
Sadly, there are no good, modern...Thank you, Terry<br /><br />Sadly, there are no good, modern books in English to be had, however some of the Rundschau publications have been translated into English. I suggest you check out this forum which has a bibliography and suggestions for books<br /><br />http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showforum=25<br /><br />best<br />JR. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-23870981932801287212010-02-06T20:15:09.898-05:002010-02-06T20:15:09.898-05:00You are really amazing. I will definitely be follo...You are really amazing. I will definitely be following you for now on. By the way, Fatto can you recommend where I could buy a great book that teaches how to draft patterns for Men's Sport Coats? It would be greatly appreciate.<br /><br />mysocietynewyork.comTerry Corbetthttp://www.mysocietynewyork.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-66386655776193668532010-02-02T15:51:32.135-05:002010-02-02T15:51:32.135-05:00Thanks, Leigh & Louche
I have an admission to...Thanks, Leigh & Louche<br /><br />I have an admission to make- I actually have one of those cards with white, black and 18% grey zones so there is no reason other than my laziness for not adjusting the white balance. Maybe now that I know that people who know what they are seeing are looking, I might put a little more effort into my shots! :)<br /><br />JR. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-72293097439716230432010-02-01T12:21:30.172-05:002010-02-01T12:21:30.172-05:00Great post, Jeff. Louche was indeed reading. Pleas...Great post, Jeff. Louche was indeed reading. Please keep up the bits on fabric and the wise selection of it. Regards.<br /><br /> - LoucheThe Louchehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05528743432105407737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-7770735958720745722010-02-01T11:41:18.044-05:002010-02-01T11:41:18.044-05:00Hi, I've loved reading your blog for a long ti...Hi, I've loved reading your blog for a long time, I get more and more fascinated with each new post. You had a side comment in this one that caught my attention in a way that I might be able to help. Regarding the problem you described, where "my lights turn the lining a pinkish shade when photographing." In truth, and looking at these other photos, it's more likely your camera than your lights. As you can see, the black of the dinner suit is showing up as an almost grey-brown almost dark taupe rather than a deep black (i didn't even realize the photo WAS a dinner suit at first.. i thought "who buys a taupe dinner suit?") Have you played at all with the "white balance" setting on your camera? You may need to read the manual a bit, but most digital cameras have the ability to take a photo of a white object (or piece of paper) before you start shooting, to give a reference point of what is actually white under your lighting conditions. This has a profound effect on the colors of the resulting photos. I hope this helps! Please keep on doing what you're doing!!Leighnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-17709270755677958362010-01-31T15:17:36.415-05:002010-01-31T15:17:36.415-05:00Your blog and commentaries are of great value. Ple...Your blog and commentaries are of great value. Please keep up the good work.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-1342551877451621472010-01-29T13:51:47.031-05:002010-01-29T13:51:47.031-05:00While some of the larger firms on Savile Row may h...While some of the larger firms on Savile Row may have more money to spend on advertising and publicists who will place an article in print, albeit to shore-up the reputation of a well-known name in bespoke tailoring, it's no guarantee that the garments will be any better than those produced by a smaller firm on or off the row. In my experience smaller is preferable to the biggies. Less espensive, too. Personal attention, the skill and artistry of cutters, tailors, seamstresses and pressers, however few they may be in a small firm, may very well trump their larger counterparts who all to often resort to mentioning the names of royalty, actors, captains of industry and indolent trustfund twits tailored by them in bygone eras. It leaves a fellow embarking on a commission underwhelmed and insulted. Find a good tailor who focuses on you, and nobody else but you!<br /><br />JMBJordan Marchttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09187029720569656533noreply@blogger.com