tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post154574595751208745..comments2024-03-25T07:25:49.145-04:00Comments on Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate: Boutonnière milanaise, méthode CifonelliR. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-26998743813852345182011-04-22T13:03:38.154-04:002011-04-22T13:03:38.154-04:00That is the nicest buttonhole I have seen so far. ...That is the nicest buttonhole I have seen so far. I was only thought to make simple buttonhole without gimp, and I don't like them to much as they are to flat. I will change to that button hole now. In Germany they made gimp button holes in the 30thies with hand silk not with button hole silk, they also look good.Uwe Schonherrhttp://www.berlinbespokesuits.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-4771645321212637762011-04-08T04:14:55.852-04:002011-04-08T04:14:55.852-04:00Thank you Jeffrey, I read everything. See you soon...Thank you Jeffrey, I read everything. See you soon.<br />FrancaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-88053118595692181542011-04-07T10:38:48.285-04:002011-04-07T10:38:48.285-04:00@Franca- ti capisco perfettamente! Vedi sopra per...@Franca- ti capisco perfettamente! Vedi sopra per il risposto.R. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-6219380831594231342011-04-07T10:31:46.505-04:002011-04-07T10:31:46.505-04:00Thanks for your answer, Jeffery
ok I'll write ...Thanks for your answer, Jeffery<br />ok I'll write in Italian and I hope you understand me.<br />Ho sempre realizzato capospalla con l'asola occhiello con vergolina. Nella mia regione (Abruzzo) ci sono molti sarti, alcuni lavorano anche alla Brioni Roman Style di Penne, infatti uno di loro, con cui ho frequentato l’istituto di moda, MOLTI anni fa, mi insegnò a ricamare l’asola occhiello.<br />Qualche tempo fa ho chiesto ad un sarto della mia città se mi faceva vedere “l'asola lucida” da fare sul rever, ma ha trovato delle scuse e mi ha detto che era impegnato…….! Quando ho visto le tue foto sul tuo blog sono stata molto felice, ed ho cominciato a provare e riprovare. <br />Il bello della tua “asola lucida” è che c’è il punto asola sotto la vergolina, mentre alla Brioni la fanno senza nodino, girando il filo di seta intorno alla vergolina e facendo un punto semplice. <br />Per quanto riguarda il mio problema, ho provato a fare un punto più piccolo per evitare che si vedesse sotto il cordoncino, ma il tessuto che sto usando è sottile e si sfilaccia moltissimo, anche se ho fatto il sorfilo a mano con filo di poliestere sottile.<br />MA NON MI ARRENDO!!!! Proverò e riprOverò finché verrà perfetta!! Grazieeee!!! Thank you very much!!<br />Congratulations for your blog! It 's wonderful!<br />Good day to you all<br />FrancaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-14062928235711041592011-04-07T08:54:48.329-04:002011-04-07T08:54:48.329-04:00@Franca- you will notice a small purl underneath t...@Franca- you will notice a small purl underneath the gimp (vergolina), however it is possible that you are taking stitches that are too wide- they must be just a hair wider than the thickness of the gimp itself so that they will be covered.<br /><br />P.S. You wrote just fine, but if you are unsure of your English, you could also write in Italian and I will understand.R. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-83849591146656067212011-04-05T11:15:10.671-04:002011-04-05T11:15:10.671-04:00Hello everyone, and you Jeffery, I am Franca. I t...Hello everyone, and you Jeffery, I am Franca. I tried to do the "asola lucida", as you've described, but I noticed that in the thin fabric is not as beautiful as your. It is not see only the "vergolina" covered with silk, but also the points are evident. While in the your butthonhole only see the gimp covered with the silk. Have I done something wrong?<br />P.S. I hope I have written all good<br /><br />FRANCA FROM ITALYAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-44755445538553882962011-03-26T18:16:48.845-04:002011-03-26T18:16:48.845-04:00@Zoran- thanks for the recommendation.
@Anonymous...@Zoran- thanks for the recommendation.<br /><br />@Anonymous. Again, don't thank me, thank Matthew. Everybody repeat after me- "Thank you, Matthew". Lol.R. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-5498149377797884962011-03-23T20:46:54.715-04:002011-03-23T20:46:54.715-04:00Thanks Jeffrey. Really appreciate you putting this...Thanks Jeffrey. Really appreciate you putting this up.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-44993249430666219512011-03-22T04:35:37.223-04:002011-03-22T04:35:37.223-04:00great post and blogs
as for camera i would strongl...great post and blogs<br />as for camera i would strongly recommend lx 4 panasonic<br />has great macro and fast lens so you wont be needing flash at allZoran Arizanovichttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10802998998555723699noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-64951680237670329132011-03-21T20:09:28.924-04:002011-03-21T20:09:28.924-04:00Don't thank me, thank Matthew, who I hope will...Don't thank me, thank Matthew, who I hope will drop by to answer questions.<br /><br />@Benjamin- the Brioni was ages ago so I don't really recall, but I think it was the figure-eight stitch (certainly the Smalto and Tom Ford were done this way) but using a very fine thread so it just looks like satin. I'm looking into the thread they use at the Zegna factory that makes the TF stuff.R. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-22042512099702853552011-03-21T19:38:10.573-04:002011-03-21T19:38:10.573-04:00The post was clear; I meant to say more ways of do...The post was clear; I meant to say more ways of doing it than the ones outlined in the post. The Brioni buttonhole looks VERY flat, almost like very tight overcasting. It doesn't look like it was made with the figure 8 and certainly not the Cifonelli raised and knotted stitch. When you unpicked the Brioni's hole (in the Samuelsohn and Brioni DJ comparison), was it a figure 8 stitch or something else?Benjamin E.noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-85652109864771800732011-03-21T19:27:49.695-04:002011-03-21T19:27:49.695-04:00now this i've got to try. and what carl said.
...now this i've got to try. and what carl said.<br />thank you mr d.s.noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-26622140077112028932011-03-21T18:57:03.608-04:002011-03-21T18:57:03.608-04:00and how long does it take to make that beautiful b...and how long does it take to make that beautiful buttonhole?Carl Goldbergnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-14911513998634890392011-03-21T18:40:10.810-04:002011-03-21T18:40:10.810-04:00how do you finished it? to loos like the "bar...how do you finished it? to loos like the "bar tack" at the end is raised even higher? thanksAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-3373958890669999382011-03-21T17:37:30.394-04:002011-03-21T17:37:30.394-04:00@Benjamin- yes- was my post not clear?
@Sewing Pr...@Benjamin- yes- was my post not clear?<br /><br />@Sewing Princess- while it would be common to overcast the buttonhole by hand before working it in silk, it is possible that Matthew had stitched it by machine first. A number of factories and tailors do this now.R. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-33393034077710547352011-03-21T17:32:32.899-04:002011-03-21T17:32:32.899-04:00Did you hand sew the buttonhole with white thread ...Did you hand sew the buttonhole with white thread beforehand? Sorry, I am a newbieSewing Princesshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17337829909003253138noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-48767228653026824142011-03-21T14:10:20.641-04:002011-03-21T14:10:20.641-04:00Excellent work! Thank you!!
Interesting how the ...Excellent work! Thank you!!<br /><br />Interesting how the Cifonelli method contrasts with the Brioni; the Brioni buttonhole was pretty flat whereas these are raised above the surface. I'm guessing there's more than one way of doing this?Benjamin E.noreply@blogger.com