tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post2028819143307562668..comments2024-03-25T07:25:49.145-04:00Comments on Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate: Menefreghismo, part 2- The GutsR. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-45872259372679367562015-08-07T01:04:43.560-04:002015-08-07T01:04:43.560-04:00Great blog Very interesting to see the inside of t...Great blog Very interesting to see the inside of this jacket! A little off topic. but how do you tend to attach the facing to jackets? I ask because I've seen two main ways of doing this: putting the right sides together and then turning and pressing, as well as turning the main fabric under, and then hand felling down the facing.Thanks for sharing..........<br /><br /><a href="http://www.saltbranding.com.sg/" rel="nofollow">Brand Consultant Singapore</a> | <a href="http://www.saltbranding.com.sg/brand-consultant-singapore.html" rel="nofollow">Singapore Expert Brand Consultant</a>Jhon Staphenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09109650156172127414noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-17677959552372775022015-07-02T22:05:12.873-04:002015-07-02T22:05:12.873-04:00The first thing I thought of looking at this coat ...The first thing I thought of looking at this coat on the stand was concealed weapons carry. The extra room in the shoulders, the easy drape yet with body would be necessary to cover the bulkiness of a weapon. There's not any unusual wear inside is there?<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-45617094166299504022015-06-19T15:11:36.012-04:002015-06-19T15:11:36.012-04:00This is like investigating some sort of mystery! W...This is like investigating some sort of mystery! What history does this coat have? Who wore something with sleeves like that, and why? Can't wait to hear more!Jordanhttp://alterationspecialists.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-14410314090261226492015-06-14T15:48:36.110-04:002015-06-14T15:48:36.110-04:00" more likely, this was cut for a normal pers..." more likely, this was cut for a normal person but a liberal amount of drape was cut in the chest and blades"<br />Looking at the chest piece I think this is highly probable. That is if that is the grain line in the haircloth. The grain line runs perpendicular to the break line making the chest on bias and would add to a soft chest. There would be less resistance in the chest when moving your arms forward.<br />The added piece of hymo attached to the bottom of the haircloth would also contribute to a softer chest. We used to cut the haircloth on grain line and add a bias cut piece at the bottom and attach it as in this jacket to have structure in the shoulder and a softer chest.<br />Have used selicia on the tips of the collar but not domet cloth. Will give it a try. Never put anything on the lapels outside of a dinner suit with silk facings.<br />Very unusual to see the sleeve seam opened on the front and turned into the sleeve on the back. Lot's of unique work in this jacket.<br />That is a huge outlet on the back shoulder by the way. <br />Thanks for the dissection Jeffery. very educational<br />Chris DesposAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-91438382757775013692015-06-14T10:30:42.143-04:002015-06-14T10:30:42.143-04:00The sleeves on this coat may look very sloppy on a...The sleeves on this coat may look very sloppy on a dummy, but we can't know how far forward the real customer's shoulders and arms were.Marchttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00354635601579291164noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-58439059571077115972015-06-14T06:48:13.083-04:002015-06-14T06:48:13.083-04:00You must have guts if you want to create wholesale...You must have guts if you want to create <a href="http://www.wow-wholesale.com/wholesale-mens-clothing" title="wholesale mens clothing" rel="nofollow">wholesale mens clothing</a> similar to this ones. Great job.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08114677772547494751noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-2800364072000029532015-06-12T23:42:32.195-04:002015-06-12T23:42:32.195-04:00Very interesting to see the inside of this jacket!...Very interesting to see the inside of this jacket! A little off topic. but how do you tend to attach the facing to jackets? I ask because I've seen two main ways of doing this: putting the right sides together and then turning and pressing, as well as turning the main fabric under, and then hand felling down the facing. Have you found advantages to one or the other? Or does this usually fall to personal preference? opuiyablehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06124109951816050853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-20088324907137082922015-06-12T06:22:52.105-04:002015-06-12T06:22:52.105-04:00Interestingly enough, here we have the front dart,...Interestingly enough, here we have the front dart, (second image).<br />http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2015/06/almost-ready-suits-being-made-for-our-tailoring-symposium.html<br /><br />/Anders.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-13879274960273864592015-06-12T05:14:56.316-04:002015-06-12T05:14:56.316-04:00The canvas is either 210 or IE16 from zorloni, whi...The canvas is either 210 or IE16 from zorloni, which is actually a good camelhair canvas, the heaviest zorloni makes. It's nice in a stout sporting tweed. The hymo is zorlonis terrible synthetic hair cloth. It's not good at all. It looks like an apprentice job.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-57455271295507433002015-06-12T00:05:41.154-04:002015-06-12T00:05:41.154-04:00Thank you to vox for donating and thank you Jeffer...Thank you to vox for donating and thank you Jeffery for cutting it up! The juxtaposition of the cleanliness on the inside and messiness on the outside is bizarre, but interesting to see. Aside from the felling of the lining to the facing, was the lining itself "messy" (i.e. was there loads of unnecessary fullness to avoid extra work while making it up)? Also, what was the cloth like?<br />Sleevehead treatment is indeed very interesting. Despite the four layers of domette to fill it out, the sleeve crown is still full enough to shirr. At work, we took a commission from the Met to make costumes for Werther. My particular favorite pieces were the undertakers' frocks. They had to carry a casket and yet the coats had to remain absolutely still on the wearers. They had this sort of long undersleeve as well. Worked perfectly.<br /><br />Also, on Sandro's draft, the side of the dart towards the armhole is bigger than that towards the front edge. Does that throw more fullness towards the chest/scye area?Benjamin E.noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-44692940107294080662015-06-11T17:16:35.175-04:002015-06-11T17:16:35.175-04:00That Steed jacket is particularly handsome (cough....That Steed jacket is particularly handsome (cough.)voxsartoriahttp://www.voxsartoria.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-42499692524317109482015-06-11T16:55:07.170-04:002015-06-11T16:55:07.170-04:00Another fascinating read. Thank you for the insigh...Another fascinating read. Thank you for the insight into tailoring.Marysiahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17959080591821794196noreply@blogger.com