tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post4894901407578561999..comments2024-03-25T07:25:49.145-04:00Comments on Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate: DesposR. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comBlogger7125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-63633804082153195742012-03-29T13:51:30.118-04:002012-03-29T13:51:30.118-04:00Quote:
The pocket that has been created for the sh...Quote:<br />The pocket that has been created for the shoulder bone is very obvious here. This room is very important to the comfort of the garment- garments whose weight sits on the shoulder point are uncomfortable and don't move as well with the wearer. For this reason, shoulder seams which angle backward (and thus make it more difficult to get this forward pitch of the shoulder) are counter-productive, in my opinion.<br /><br />There is some misunderstanding of the forward pitch of the shoulder. The forward pitch is the result of the shoulder bone ease and has not too much to do with the position of the shoulder seam. The highest point of the sleeve cap points to 5mm behind the “Kammlinie” of the shoulder seam which gives an impression of a forward pitch but isn’t really…<br /><br />There are 4 different positions, the oldest one is the one from the period tailoring, very much on the bias towards the back. The second one is about 3cm behind highest point of the shoulder line (Germans called it the “Kammlinie”). The 3cm bias one was very common in English tailoring. The reason why it was on bias was simply you could iron in more ease for the shoulder blades and the seam length became equal with the front shoulder seam. In German modern tailoring the English bias seam became unfashionable and was moved 1cm behind the “Kammlinie” it was still possible to iron in ease for the shoulder blades as the shoulder seam was still on bias enough. German Master tailors didn’t like the fact that with strip design fabric the mismatching rapport became seen from behind and they moved the shoulder line 5mm to the front, so the shoulder line was only 5mm behind the “Kammlinie”. This resulted in a straighter back shoulder seam and brought the shoulder seam into existence. German tailoring made the decision that with the harder and finer/lighter fabric there was not much chance anyway to iron in shoulder blade ease so they used the shoulder dart like they were always using them in the women tailoring. Men Tailors didn’t like the idea of the shoulder darts too much so until today the shoulder seam commonly has been brought back 1cm behind the “Kammlinie”. For a proportional customer you can avoid a shoulder dart in this seam position. If somebody might think I am talking… everything is published in bits and pieces in the German Rundschau magazines from 1936 to 1979 I just repeat what I have read in my literature. There are no secrets in tailoring if you have access to the expensive literature.<br /><br />For the buttonholes: In Germany is was common use not to use gimp in the newer time, we used a Quispel, which was only a twisted buttonhole thread instead of gimp. In my apprenticeship with a master tailor we never used gimp. But I prefer and I love to use gimp for my buttonholes which are seen from the outside. But for a trouser fly I would use the simple buttonhole with Quispel.Berlin-Bespoke-Suitshttp://www.berlinbespokesuits.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-84030833189621720112012-03-29T13:13:32.934-04:002012-03-29T13:13:32.934-04:00Quote:
An extra strip of self cloth has been inser...Quote:<br />An extra strip of self cloth has been inserted at the cap of the sleeve for smoother pressing.<br /><br /><br />The piece of cloth prevents cutting in the inlay of the armhole in order to iron the seam of the sleeve and the armhole in each direction. Cutting in the armhole seam would destroy the armhole inlay and stretching out/messing up the shoulder. Tailors did that though. German engineered cutting books then showed this solution in 1954 of laying under and sewing a piece of bias fabric in the shoulder in order to even level the seam edges from the sleeve crown and opposite seam, mainly to prevent roping or smoothening roping which was unfashionable in German/American style until today. After 1969 tailors in Germany abandoned the bias stripe as you could see the stripe in side light impressed to the outside and the fabric became lighter and the tailoring finer. You can also see the impressed stripe in the Despos suit in the second picture which is not to nice today anymore. But the roping is smoothened.Berlin-Bespoke-Suitshttp://www.berlinbespokesuits.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-44282022346828213872011-02-28T13:51:02.373-05:002011-02-28T13:51:02.373-05:00I absolutely love it when you go into the construc...I absolutely love it when you go into the construction like this. Another heartfelt thank you from someone with a serious interest buy not the means to study under someone to learn this.lorrwillhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12671379391189827831noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-1171341848287486842011-02-21T19:13:38.144-05:002011-02-21T19:13:38.144-05:00Jeffery, I'm studying in earnest to be able to...Jeffery, I'm studying in earnest to be able to tailor a jacket by hand. Thanks so much for taking the time out of your schedule and post these wonderfully informative pieces.<br /><br />I had basic questions about padstitching that I couldn't find the answers to. I looked at the beginning of your blog and voile! Everything I wanted to know was right here. WITH illustrations that made your writing very clear.<br /><br />Again, thanks so much. I appreciate every word.<br /><br />KimKimnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-15834049760509873972011-02-15T19:50:09.179-05:002011-02-15T19:50:09.179-05:00JMB, I totally agree with you. I have been wearin...JMB, I totally agree with you. I have been wearing bespoke and MTM clothing for 3 decades and I feel fortunate to have come to Chris. On the Esquire film series on artisans in England, they visit Reid and Taylor the first day. Chris made me a double breasted suit in the check cloth that is the intro to the segment on that mill. It is my favorite garment ever. Of course my favorite coat ever before that was the tweed 2 button that he made for me, and before that...Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-60821062191143714602011-02-13T17:52:47.564-05:002011-02-13T17:52:47.564-05:00The shoulder is fantastic. It is THE shoulder. Eve...The shoulder is fantastic. It is THE shoulder. Everybody is going about "spalla camicia" but they don't know what they are talking about. It's just name dropping. (We all know that Neapolitan tailoring is in.)<br />This pagoda-shaped shoulder looks much neater than the "natural shoulder" we hear about all the time.<br />Great post and great suit.<br /><br />/Anders.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-34297295123626490982011-02-12T15:38:24.728-05:002011-02-12T15:38:24.728-05:00Splendid dissection, Jeffery. Time was Chicago had...Splendid dissection, Jeffery. Time was Chicago had a fair share of custom tailors in the last century, some of whom did very fine work. Thank heavens we have Chris Despos to carry on the tradition of truly superb design and workmanship. It takes no great effort, other than deep pockets, to fly to London and commission a bespoke suit from Huntsman or Poole, but when the local talent is topnotch why bother? A relatively short drive to the Gold Coast<br />trumps a long tiresome schlep to and from the United Kingdom. <br /><br />JMBJordan Marchttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09187029720569656533noreply@blogger.com