tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post7946809542321832189..comments2024-03-25T07:25:49.145-04:00Comments on Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate: Sleeves on an overcoatR. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-8919282177512475202016-01-09T14:38:29.934-05:002016-01-09T14:38:29.934-05:00Thank-you Jeffery!Thank-you Jeffery!Miss Ironshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08450816354507537065noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-65614469732509541832016-01-05T13:12:36.575-05:002016-01-05T13:12:36.575-05:00Miss Irons- no book or resource, just something on...Miss Irons- no book or resource, just something one learns in the business. The wadding is a blend of wool, viscose and polyesterR. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-87534983269737944562016-01-04T18:08:14.398-05:002016-01-04T18:08:14.398-05:00Hi there, I am wondering what book/resource you us...Hi there, I am wondering what book/resource you use to draft the canvas and wadding? Also are you using wool wadding? Thank-you!Miss Ironshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08450816354507537065noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-10992981915751177832013-10-22T16:27:13.231-04:002013-10-22T16:27:13.231-04:00Absolutely beautiful. I don't know why I have ...Absolutely beautiful. I don't know why I have so much trouble wrapping my brain around sleeve heads. I've read and re-read but I still don't really get it. Any chance you could do a YouTube video on the subject? Pretty please?lovelyritahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06499487796771984561noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-61600983181170332412013-03-27T15:03:04.308-04:002013-03-27T15:03:04.308-04:00This comment has been removed by the author.JOSH STEVENShttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15114888889726912522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-10381208865255232782011-07-11T14:38:00.115-04:002011-07-11T14:38:00.115-04:00Steven:
I can only dream about the sewing skill yo...Steven:<br />I can only dream about the sewing skill you have. Thank you so much for your helpful insight.jonimw84https://www.blogger.com/profile/00787845946415433470noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-85817289903582381122010-05-29T13:42:39.660-04:002010-05-29T13:42:39.660-04:00A lot of my tutors seemed to think that pre-
gathe...A lot of my tutors seemed to think that pre-<br />gathering a sleeve head was cheating. In fact, they even thought pinning it before basting it was cheating. I feel fully justified now to give pre-gathering a go! And that coat - that coat is just SO beautiful.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-23820334477858468082010-05-16T19:25:24.249-04:002010-05-16T19:25:24.249-04:00Steven
The ones we use in the trade are pretty ex...Steven<br /><br />The ones we use in the trade are pretty expensive but you can get good deals on them second hand. Find a sewing machine dealer that buys closeout equipment (and there is lots of it, with so many factories shutting down)and see if they have any. If they don't they could point you in the right direction. You don't absolutely need one for sleeve setting, though. Holding the jacket over your open palm will tell the story. I sense a post coming on.....<br /><br />JR. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-41602469757725841672010-05-16T11:15:02.700-04:002010-05-16T11:15:02.700-04:00Wow! I love the overcoat!! The fabric looks so f...Wow! I love the overcoat!! The fabric looks so fabulous and the color is great. Love it, love it!!!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-16580887967962423532010-05-16T07:26:57.195-04:002010-05-16T07:26:57.195-04:00Steven, here's a website and address that may ...Steven, here's a website and address that may be of help:<br /><br />www.roxydisplayinc.com<br /><br />Roxy Display<br />18 Kennedy Blvd.<br />East Brunswick, NJ 08816<br />732.246.7058<br /><br />hope that helps. KimAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-23321696642204900752010-05-14T10:08:30.766-04:002010-05-14T10:08:30.766-04:00Your blog is always great to read. I am remodeling...Your blog is always great to read. I am remodeling a tweed jacket as a personal learning experience. Do you know where you can get a dress form stand for a male? I think I need something like that. I am getting puckers everywhere.Steven Thttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11955954104010568599noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-3247759890104830772010-05-10T08:33:14.300-04:002010-05-10T08:33:14.300-04:00Hello Kay
A sleeve head pattern that is the same ...Hello Kay<br /><br />A sleeve head pattern that is the same shape as the sleeve will be much less forgiving- it demands much greater precision in setting, and must be eased in like the sleeve. A sleeve head which is less round does not require much easing, is a little easier to set, but most importantly, offers more support to the sleeve than a very curved one, which will look nice when standing at ease but will tend to buckle when you are in movement. The spring provided by a straighter sleeve head will support the sleeve better through a greater range of motion- we try to find the right balance between stuffing the cap full of a straight sleeve head and the more subtle support of a curved one.<br /><br />best<br />JR. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-79238437168031634452010-05-09T12:22:27.797-04:002010-05-09T12:22:27.797-04:00Thank you for the update on the sleeve head patter...Thank you for the update on the sleeve head pattern making. I am printing it for posterity (hoping I remember the next time I am making a jacket!) Just yesterday, I did the sleeves on a jacket project and am creatively making up the padding/structure, as usual. I cut a sleeve head directly from the sleeve cap pattern, i.e. with the same curve exactly. I'm using a lightweight quilt batting (needlepunch). After sewing in the sleeve head, I steamed the cap seam lightly so all layers will stay turned toward the sleeve cap. To my eye, at least, it looks fine. In fact I like that it won't ripple inside the sleeve. So my question is what is the benefit of the less curved sleeve head?KayYhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09965798068172494708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-63607550992793356652010-05-03T10:22:15.039-04:002010-05-03T10:22:15.039-04:00Jeffery:
While you designed and tailored the over...Jeffery:<br /><br />While you designed and tailored the overcoat for a woman (lucky lady, to be sure), the coat with different styling and details would have made a handsome overcoat for a man, say, a double-breasted Chesterfield sans velvet collar for daywear. However, where you would find vintage cloth of this quality precludes that possibility. <br /><br />JMBJordan Marchttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09187029720569656533noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-33254640305634522172010-05-03T07:58:27.604-04:002010-05-03T07:58:27.604-04:00Thanks everyone!
The cloth is vintage, probably 2...Thanks everyone!<br /><br />The cloth is vintage, probably 25-30 years old, and is 65 mohair, 35 wool. Strange blend but it works.R. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-11267395272917825202010-05-02T14:46:05.083-04:002010-05-02T14:46:05.083-04:00you're a legend.you're a legend.scnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-83747168305680970022010-05-01T23:23:20.242-04:002010-05-01T23:23:20.242-04:00Jeffery:
A truly beautiful overcoat for a woman! ...Jeffery:<br /><br />A truly beautiful overcoat for a woman! And a marvelous lesson in the art of sleeveheading.<br />Beautiful cloth, too. Is it camelhair, or a <br />cashmere/camelhair blend that has been reversed for a more textured effect?<br /><br />JMBJordan Marchttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09187029720569656533noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-30266887322178007982010-05-01T21:10:50.728-04:002010-05-01T21:10:50.728-04:00Just settling in for the evening...I'll surf o...Just settling in for the evening...I'll surf over and check out Jeffery's site...Hunh?!!!... Sleeves?!!! WooHoo!!!! <br /><br />I'm in heaven.<br /><br />Jeffery. Thank you sooooo much!!!! :-)<br /><br />KimAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-59951466067975170272010-05-01T17:28:20.014-04:002010-05-01T17:28:20.014-04:00Wow, the fabric looks fantastic. I love the design...Wow, the fabric looks fantastic. I love the design of the coat. Your sewing is just perfect, and I thank you for taking the time to do this for the homesewers. I'm going back to reread. Thanks.Lynnhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11760767309376280737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-36795376934224699982010-05-01T15:03:52.400-04:002010-05-01T15:03:52.400-04:00I'd really love to see that article on sleeve ...I'd really love to see that article on sleeve heads - your pieces are intriguing. How exactly do they go together? (I'm a home sewer but always looking for new tricks.)KayYhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09965798068172494708noreply@blogger.com