tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post900114721938367956..comments2024-03-25T07:25:49.145-04:00Comments on Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate: A very important distinction as I prepare the armholesR. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comBlogger3125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-24663558411996034782011-02-25T13:26:17.872-05:002011-02-25T13:26:17.872-05:00I know this is an old post to resurrect. I learned...I know this is an old post to resurrect. I learned to steady the armhole with a combinations of stitches. <br /><br />For example, Starting at the front pitch take a back stitch with double thread, then take a few fore-stitches and pull a little fullness, then lock with a back stitch, continue this until the nearly the side-seam. Making sure to distribute the fullness more toward the front of the scye and a little less to nothing at the side seam. From the side seam up and around to the front pitch use a chain stitch, making sure to steady the back of the scye with slightly smaller stitches. This might be a little more involved and archaic, but I think it works well to hold the shaping.J. Maclochlainnnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-34470971535525263552008-12-29T08:25:00.000-05:002008-12-29T08:25:00.000-05:00If I switch, I will do the chain stitch by machine...If I switch, I will do the chain stitch by machine- functionally it is the same stitch, and I can control the fullness with a knee switch so there is no advantage that I can see to doing it by hand. I maintain the control and elasticity which is the main reason touted for setting sleeves by hand.<BR/><BR/>The black tape is cut on a 15% bias- it gives some stability so the area won't stretch anymore but is still elastic, which is important. The same principle as the rest of the armhole.R. Jeffery Diduchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-31428518454722564632008-12-29T03:26:00.000-05:002008-12-29T03:26:00.000-05:00If you switched to hand chain stitch for your shop...If you switched to hand chain stitch for your shop, would you eat the extra time cost or roll it into the final price of the suit? Also, is that black tape bias or straight?Todd Hudsonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13775830499834171189noreply@blogger.com