tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52335611438568606982024-03-17T21:26:04.141-04:00Made by Hand- the great Sartorial DebateR. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.comBlogger235125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-33688997004966440632020-01-10T13:43:00.002-05:002020-01-10T18:51:47.075-05:00"Robert Jeffery"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wow. It's been 12 years since I started this blog. The focus has shifted over time, and I seem to have been writing less and less, mostly since life happened and I got busy (and married) and moved all over the place. I feel the time is right to devote more time to blogging again, especially since I now have help.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The first major thing to talk about is the migration from Blogspot/Blogger and Flickr, etc. to my own site. Sites like Blogspot are great because they are free and easy, but you don't really own your content (you get what you pay for). Sadly, a lot of my photos in older posts are now lost because some photo hosting sites decided to change the terms and conditions. I considered moving over to Instagram but that's just another place where you are at the mercy of someone in San Francisco. The other thing is I have a lot of new projects on the go and I think it's time I consolidated everything into one spot. So my new website, which is still being developed, can be found at </span><a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=http://robertjeffery.us&source=gmail&ust=1578764409863000&usg=AFQjCNHXSZPSZF_z8_4JVz_H560NumEq1A" href="http://robertjeffery.us/" style="background-color: white; color: #1155cc; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">robertjeffery.us</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. "Robert Jeffery" is also the name of the company I formed last year. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Tuttofattoamano/Made by Hand blog will be hosted under this umbrella, as well as a few related sites like my ladies wear (The Louise Collection), and an activewear collection to be launched later this year. So I apologize for any inconvenience if you have come looking for old articles on Blogspot which you can`t find anymore but hopefully the new blog site at </span><a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=http://robertjeffery.us&source=gmail&ust=1578764409863000&usg=AFQjCNHXSZPSZF_z8_4JVz_H560NumEq1A" href="http://robertjeffery.us/" style="background-color: white; color: #1155cc; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">robertjeffery.us</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> will be far more searchable so you can find old stuff more easily.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So what have I been up to lately? I'm still happily busy at Hickey Freeman in Rochester, New York, but have been traveling back and forth to Montreal every week, spending time at our Samuelsohn facility, where we have made suits for almost 100 years, and recently also began sewing shirts, as well as a Canadian brand of outerwear called Moose Knuckles.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For almost a year now I have also been working on some new technology to draft patterns from body measurements with the intent to modernize made-to-measure (MTM). I know there are tons of websites out there that claim to already make custom patterns from photos and body scans but I have yet to see technology that I would actually want to use and hang my reputation as a tailor on. So I teamed up with some clever people in Europe who had already begun working on something and we will begin live beta testing in the very near future. More on that soon.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Last summer I accidentally started a line of ladies tailored clothing. By "accidentally", I mean I wanted to put together a little group of ladies' suits as a tribute to our late congresswoman, to be shown at a charity fundraiser in Rochester. It didn't occur to me at the time people might actually be interested in buying the stuff, so we had to quickly cobble together a company and a website to make the line available publicly. The Louise Collection belongs to Robert Jeffery, LLC, and is being produced at the factory that makes Hickey Freeman in Rochester. Right now it is only made to measure, by appointment, but we are considering bringing it to a wider market through carefully selected retailers in the United States and maybe eventually Europe.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I couldn't have done any of that without the help of my husband, who is the director of operations for Robert Jeffery. He is handling the website(s), the book keeping, billing, scheduling, daily operations, and is also my in-house Salesforce system admin. A former competitive bodybuilder, he's always had trouble finding clothes, and I have always had trouble getting him into suits, which is a bit of a shame considering... Like the aforementioned technology, there are products on the market which purport to be made to fit athletic guys, but again, I found most of them lacking. And the good ones in Europe and Australia are either super expensive to have shipped to the US, if they will even ship at all, and don't extend into the larger sizes needed by big American boys. So he decided we should launch a line of activewear and athleisure for that specific market. To the extent that the market will permit it, we want to have most or all of it made in the United States. Again, more on that in due course.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">So with all that said, I'll stop posting here on Blogspot - go check out our new home on the </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">web at </span></span><a href="https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/</span></a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[Please go to the new <a href="https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/">Tuttofattoamano</a> to comment]</span></div>
R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-17219049680285573732019-11-07T15:12:00.000-05:002020-01-10T18:52:03.335-05:00Hickey Freeman Warehouse Sale<a href="https://hickeyfreeman.com/pages/rochester-factory-store-warehouse-sale"> Hickey Freeman Warehouse Sale</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL22dRZTli2Rqo2Co8YscAag1Z5fAvrVhOveBaGssmeFkgvyHUxut70kK11PHHemhRDOrYe-SVENQXcRcnHuMPhiufUU3q-BKNYtxWeoSYFaXopUTiJZb3RP8NVIf6hvEwAVKVixP8fU_i/s1600/Screenshot+2019-11-06+08.06.59.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="808" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL22dRZTli2Rqo2Co8YscAag1Z5fAvrVhOveBaGssmeFkgvyHUxut70kK11PHHemhRDOrYe-SVENQXcRcnHuMPhiufUU3q-BKNYtxWeoSYFaXopUTiJZb3RP8NVIf6hvEwAVKVixP8fU_i/s1600/Screenshot+2019-11-06+08.06.59.png" /></a><br />
<br />R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-64955052142188633642019-10-13T12:18:00.000-04:002020-01-10T18:52:26.943-05:00Women's plus sizesI'm stepping so far outside of my comfort zone these days....<br />
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<a href="http://thelouisecollection.com/">I'm participating in a fashion show this week</a>. It's a major fundraiser here in Rochester and I thought I would present a small group of garments in memory of our late congresswoman, for whom I had promised to make a suit not long before her passing. At a special preview event I mentioned I had just received a dress form in US size 20 (for Europeans, that is a bust size of 120 cm) and that I intended some day to be able to offer women's plus sizes. Me and my big mouth. A week ago, my husband said to me "You know, you really need to have a plus-sized model in your show now." I just laughed. "No, I'm serious. You brought it up, now you have to follow through", he said. "Yes, SOME DAY. There are two weeks left until the show, I don't have time to study this, to draft a pattern, to fit a model and make a new suit in under two weeks!" "You'll figure it out", said he.<br />
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I'm figuring it out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg347eOlXxIFgiwdzAVM-MStMD6biAPjrT9193hk8WUUj5R7GtiIdYQbdMde_siFT3kZoV1rXcQ8Kb0yxShHgFzi4RlI31198_A62Lgnxj47wqW_yYb8V_GKmb8eWCkkjQbyOpfi00tFdAT/s1600/IMG_8719.HEIC" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg347eOlXxIFgiwdzAVM-MStMD6biAPjrT9193hk8WUUj5R7GtiIdYQbdMde_siFT3kZoV1rXcQ8Kb0yxShHgFzi4RlI31198_A62Lgnxj47wqW_yYb8V_GKmb8eWCkkjQbyOpfi00tFdAT/s400/IMG_8719.HEIC" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHh0vaUh0NsNo4YFNp8ZrvrVEG82kLQK64fckt1pReSVLHXyPKk86rnRkuuh7aOVCh85hAnvKfxsZz1EKh9g0r7NVhK4zZA0MGppLqxPL2Ymo8qLHe5hMpTxKmu65jNYDl9L-cBbkXvm07/s1600/IMG_8721.HEIC" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHh0vaUh0NsNo4YFNp8ZrvrVEG82kLQK64fckt1pReSVLHXyPKk86rnRkuuh7aOVCh85hAnvKfxsZz1EKh9g0r7NVhK4zZA0MGppLqxPL2Ymo8qLHe5hMpTxKmu65jNYDl9L-cBbkXvm07/s400/IMG_8721.HEIC" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr6nvGlU1Z0kBh1NKYpLPCDuBAbuzRPHSd9o2qJQgT1NCqJX8tOz768mrR0tL-ILswhJvZ_bbAFK2ZBesM3HkdXqVlltlGPPYv8bPTHHxGrS1J7iDigoBs45gSSpB_FGBBc0BFPiu6kO6y/s1600/IMG_8777.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr6nvGlU1Z0kBh1NKYpLPCDuBAbuzRPHSd9o2qJQgT1NCqJX8tOz768mrR0tL-ILswhJvZ_bbAFK2ZBesM3HkdXqVlltlGPPYv8bPTHHxGrS1J7iDigoBs45gSSpB_FGBBc0BFPiu6kO6y/s400/IMG_8777.jpg" width="400" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib6yekPvi4ctkjK5Q8VRPRt6XfZBijhAP8BqyjVeR0h32vA3yX4-WDdp077jW48_830pCQQW75rDLCAtbKz21vTf63UwSbu3DlmMTzlG98iKVF886oDG4FSkAejLkwkHwIpnt-MfEHZD7Q/s1600/IMG_8780.HEIC" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib6yekPvi4ctkjK5Q8VRPRt6XfZBijhAP8BqyjVeR0h32vA3yX4-WDdp077jW48_830pCQQW75rDLCAtbKz21vTf63UwSbu3DlmMTzlG98iKVF886oDG4FSkAejLkwkHwIpnt-MfEHZD7Q/s400/IMG_8780.HEIC" width="400" /></a>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-25089669186501556902019-10-11T10:39:00.000-04:002020-01-10T18:52:39.510-05:00Louise gets some colorMore of <a href="https://thelouisecollection.com/">The Louise Slaughter Collection</a> by Robert Jeffery.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZZbK4Ecbuj_Yr3GnHwo1l-k3sIbo-73zYlN47xvYUn8DBGHNqxHenHRBi3Xdt_d7rYIL2wr2D4YF3z1RF5pqBrGrb416An-BX_rfRAtycHQ8f22fdNAif3NNI22FTvpZQBrz7TM20-Gt/s1600/Red+side.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1494" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZZbK4Ecbuj_Yr3GnHwo1l-k3sIbo-73zYlN47xvYUn8DBGHNqxHenHRBi3Xdt_d7rYIL2wr2D4YF3z1RF5pqBrGrb416An-BX_rfRAtycHQ8f22fdNAif3NNI22FTvpZQBrz7TM20-Gt/s320/Red+side.jpg" width="299" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYgPDDJKxMJ7_D-qg8bOHMU2ehFdiSmS2QyfXA41rH-Huqcm6H0QWrU_M4MqkeRqt46KH4nVZuTPVr34u51MzFG04mXBdvRbGfCO8vN4e5DymnP3bGmUEhqDkotRtglzhwi0_ih5Gg2SXf/s1600/red+back+2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="832" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYgPDDJKxMJ7_D-qg8bOHMU2ehFdiSmS2QyfXA41rH-Huqcm6H0QWrU_M4MqkeRqt46KH4nVZuTPVr34u51MzFG04mXBdvRbGfCO8vN4e5DymnP3bGmUEhqDkotRtglzhwi0_ih5Gg2SXf/s320/red+back+2.jpg" width="277" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLAjBLfiwZB3jlTgzBZds0FFK7FZ2Ve_3uODsNPz4ifwIh03b-UAeFQzDeIvyuZD6zEdgkvWYICKHN6f_2ApypcYgFQYuTs2dKXwheYc4XHZKGrHOWpAWOfU0eLb52pxC08LUytYTY36Rf/s1600/Red+Front+2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="867" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLAjBLfiwZB3jlTgzBZds0FFK7FZ2Ve_3uODsNPz4ifwIh03b-UAeFQzDeIvyuZD6zEdgkvWYICKHN6f_2ApypcYgFQYuTs2dKXwheYc4XHZKGrHOWpAWOfU0eLb52pxC08LUytYTY36Rf/s320/Red+Front+2.jpg" width="289" /></a>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-56713048268129133652019-09-14T10:46:00.001-04:002020-01-10T18:53:08.821-05:00The Louise Slaughter CollectionI've been working on a capsule collection of ladies' tailored clothing, inspired by our late Congresswoman, Louise Slaughter.<br />
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Find out more about it <a href="http://thelouisecollection.com/">here.</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzM8HPFqFFfen_zhIAAhUDjAvSU5XbjVmmqg0SRKckmWvO9nDGJa837fq8AskqlfEyE5z6MJYCKLkN6KDwSnXWhPxp_jOC9vCnfW0d_DAT0qxBE1ogq86W1rlUATTYSsXLuMZ_FGs3dykE/s1600/missy.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="770" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzM8HPFqFFfen_zhIAAhUDjAvSU5XbjVmmqg0SRKckmWvO9nDGJa837fq8AskqlfEyE5z6MJYCKLkN6KDwSnXWhPxp_jOC9vCnfW0d_DAT0qxBE1ogq86W1rlUATTYSsXLuMZ_FGs3dykE/s400/missy.jpg" width="321" /></a>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-76138567205000932782019-07-12T13:23:00.001-04:002020-01-10T18:53:18.128-05:00An Approach to Haute Couture at BalenciagaLong-time readers will be aware of the huge influence Cristobal Balenciaga has had on my work and will not be surprised at my excitement about the upcoming masterclass being given at the Balenciaga Museum in Spain. Registration ends July 18 <a href="https://www.cristobalbalenciagamuseoa.com/en/learn/professional-courses/an-approach-to-haute-couture-techniques-.html">and the form can be found here</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg894q1iqoD20VzynCNiSP0nFrxdBEOOp40s_py7DWsl5fDuARWNzWarf9_paTXVftKADgk1-ngSWdNCfEsda43RLpv6UIiCQFoWjSjE6YsxvnjaWIu50EJdUFeFxoFBkFW1-nBPHjKvfqd/s1600/Screenshot+2019-07-12+13.21.10.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="623" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg894q1iqoD20VzynCNiSP0nFrxdBEOOp40s_py7DWsl5fDuARWNzWarf9_paTXVftKADgk1-ngSWdNCfEsda43RLpv6UIiCQFoWjSjE6YsxvnjaWIu50EJdUFeFxoFBkFW1-nBPHjKvfqd/s320/Screenshot+2019-07-12+13.21.10.png" width="295" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFxKTWRG4JEZiMTKOilcDkglGyU6-zEerENaliRleUwWDPWdynq2tThEdlmEGTIAvNiEAEBfEYo8exewET0n85HmtmHniCpbv8UfU-5v7jZe1lOwYjOtQRQK-gbI5y96rI7xPw-kviJnJL/s1600/Screenshot+2019-07-12+13.21.03.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="482" data-original-width="573" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFxKTWRG4JEZiMTKOilcDkglGyU6-zEerENaliRleUwWDPWdynq2tThEdlmEGTIAvNiEAEBfEYo8exewET0n85HmtmHniCpbv8UfU-5v7jZe1lOwYjOtQRQK-gbI5y96rI7xPw-kviJnJL/s320/Screenshot+2019-07-12+13.21.03.png" width="320" /></a>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-51523008216914283722019-07-10T15:43:00.003-04:002020-01-10T18:53:27.355-05:00Ironwork- back trouser<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mDvdnb30sjI" width="480"></iframe>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-67969991077465071242019-07-10T15:43:00.001-04:002020-01-10T18:53:37.364-05:00Ironwork- front trouser<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8hy3Ul--Ayw" width="480"></iframe><br />
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I wish I could understand Japanese...R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-2588553634418984872018-11-16T14:23:00.002-05:002020-01-10T18:54:47.015-05:00InstagramOne of my photo hosting sites is changing its terms of service so I'm going to start archiving photos on Instagram, in case they become no longer visible on the blog. You can find them at @jdiduch<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoGAacr3FlF1RKvLEnBoUTBJ6VIN_WA_rkCqNQctJkxOiRK25iZgt-gwDHH7gGo7UKSEQDMKt_CzgCERFDuwoqioaX_B2nuxrL_74e2zMpAXJdOP25iwHvH5usd_zxund6Xlk-VZhPr47J/s1600/shearspatterns.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="904" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoGAacr3FlF1RKvLEnBoUTBJ6VIN_WA_rkCqNQctJkxOiRK25iZgt-gwDHH7gGo7UKSEQDMKt_CzgCERFDuwoqioaX_B2nuxrL_74e2zMpAXJdOP25iwHvH5usd_zxund6Xlk-VZhPr47J/s1600/shearspatterns.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-11974416083291219032018-11-02T15:23:00.000-04:002020-01-10T18:55:01.551-05:00Going Down the Vintage Rabbit HolePart One.<br />
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The first recorded sale of Hickey Freeman merchandise to the retailer Capper & Capper of Chicago was in 1912. This was also the year that Hickey Freeman opened its new building, known as the Temple to Fine Tailoring.<br />
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I recently put my hands on a suit whose exact age was unknown but vintage clothing experts estimated to be mid-1920's. When I got it I did some research and from the labeling I was able to place it squarely between 1920 and 1932. Still a large window of time. Fortunately the styling helped me narrow it down. The suit is made from a herringbone-woven tweed; a 3-roll-2 button coat, one open breast patch pocket, two lower patches with rounded flaps, a belted back, and center vent. The vest has four welt pockets, and instead of trousers, knickers. This was a golf suit.<br />
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In the 1920's and 1930's the company produced style guides which were distributed around the country to advertise the latest clothing, sumptuously illustrated with oil paintings done by noted painter Thomas Webb. Being a moderately heavy tweed, I started looking through the fall style guides but found nothing. Not being a golfer it never occurred to me that golf suits would be sold in the spring and not the fall. From the early 1920's I found several illustrations of the Sports Suit but the details were wrong. Two button fronts. Three buttons with squared off, button-through flaps. The 1926 book is not correct and I don't have the 1927 spring book, but there in the 1928 Spring Clothes For Men guide I found the exact suit. Of course, it could be later than 1928 but there is a small detail on one of the labels that suggests it would be no later than 1932. The company began using the term "Customized Clothes" in 1920 but registered it in 1932, thereafter it would be "Customized ® Clothes". The ® is missing from the inside breast pocket label. <br />
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Another small detail helps to narrow things down a bit. The company had a policy of only allowing Hickey Freeman garments to be sold and advertised in one retailer per city. Those cities which had sufficient population to support more than one retailer were then given the exact same garments but branded Walter Morton Clothes, a label created by joining the first names of the two sons of the founders, Walter B. D. Hicker and Morton J. Baum. This began in 1928. The Capper & Capper Chicago stores (of which there were 3) carried Walter Morton while the Detroit stores (also 3) sold Hickey Freeman branded merchandise. If this were a post-1928 garment it woudl have to have been sold in Detroit rather than Chicago. Nothing definitive but interesting. <br />
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Also perhaps interesting is that Capper & Capper is one of several retail stores which, along with F. R. Tripler of New York, became delinquent in their payments largely due to the great depression, and rather than force the companies into bankruptcy, Hickey Freeman invested capital in them to prop them up, and in 1933 the company gained a controlling interest in the stores. By the 1950's the company owned both retailers outright. Walter B. Duffy Hickey, the grandson of the founder and the son of the namesake of the Walter Morton label spent his college years working at one of the Chicago Capper & Capper stores, in 1960 and 1961.<br />
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We'll look closer at the construction in another post.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCldCQWE7FEX0zMWIU9Xk0vlCIDHFiJrnGP0OEUHFWCFqWAlAMYRJfZFn6J_ig8dNQ2QLk0qf09UD7X2jjMCETWmuUhj2Ir65qf8bxyEQWqV7NftgQ6gjHYY99uhyuhWyICaorXefvR2M4/s1600/customized.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCldCQWE7FEX0zMWIU9Xk0vlCIDHFiJrnGP0OEUHFWCFqWAlAMYRJfZFn6J_ig8dNQ2QLk0qf09UD7X2jjMCETWmuUhj2Ir65qf8bxyEQWqV7NftgQ6gjHYY99uhyuhWyICaorXefvR2M4/s640/customized.jpg" width="640" /></a>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-360592697204623202018-03-02T14:41:00.000-05:002020-01-10T18:57:52.422-05:00B & TailorIt's been a while...<br />
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I've been sitting on this post for quite some time; while I was very happy to get my hands on this suit, the circumstances surrounding its acquisition made me a bit uneasy. I had been following the Korean tailors <a href="https://www.instagram.com/bntailor/">B & Tailor</a> for some time; they post lovely photos on their instagram page, some of which I have nicked and posted below-<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxi0VdppPWNtcavnOsRz5-6YFihR4BwaRs923DHQz6DxqouBpZ7dHmlNaLBR23S-QW2grdUgOk1anx4vqgVdbUhQsotyOY_V4yYdCQTejmtiUcsiV3jV5H3DXBiW6Mf3y8r643sXHssPRW/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-03-02+at+1.25.52+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="353" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxi0VdppPWNtcavnOsRz5-6YFihR4BwaRs923DHQz6DxqouBpZ7dHmlNaLBR23S-QW2grdUgOk1anx4vqgVdbUhQsotyOY_V4yYdCQTejmtiUcsiV3jV5H3DXBiW6Mf3y8r643sXHssPRW/s400/Screen+Shot+2018-03-02+at+1.25.52+PM.png" width="245" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNi-H70f0zfneoH8fRWNzfg99QgkSyOZmqjZMZohgadw9qLesW24pRuz7B6Vl9UxVLcIYJYvt3FgaYsYFm0eIsOplC0qWmIP-7wlQCePL8ADie8WyH1-clweHggyfJ93ntkC-Zxa2OcPhm/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-03-02+at+1.26.11+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="358" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNi-H70f0zfneoH8fRWNzfg99QgkSyOZmqjZMZohgadw9qLesW24pRuz7B6Vl9UxVLcIYJYvt3FgaYsYFm0eIsOplC0qWmIP-7wlQCePL8ADie8WyH1-clweHggyfJ93ntkC-Zxa2OcPhm/s400/Screen+Shot+2018-03-02+at+1.26.11+PM.png" width="258" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOHt7aNRQy5RlYL8O5i6Pq98adekrLNQXXb9WIwOWpJr1zmeNDHo5LjiBQ5RGo7FEH_URgY42jzZuKoyZDzgGKyhDxxX3FhX8mV3YgkwKnswz8-umKVQn5Q1iAcH3mUCV1-Zk8I3hLmjrP/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-03-02+at+1.26.39+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="589" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOHt7aNRQy5RlYL8O5i6Pq98adekrLNQXXb9WIwOWpJr1zmeNDHo5LjiBQ5RGo7FEH_URgY42jzZuKoyZDzgGKyhDxxX3FhX8mV3YgkwKnswz8-umKVQn5Q1iAcH3mUCV1-Zk8I3hLmjrP/s400/Screen+Shot+2018-03-02+at+1.26.39+PM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
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They certainly know how to dress a mannequin. There are several people who are selling product which is made by B&T; I know of one in Australia and one in Europe who operate independently of B&T, selling and fitting garments which are sent back to be made up in Korea, and there are probably others.<br />
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Someone with whom I have done business in the past offered me a suit and an odd trouser made by B & Tailor, as well as a coat from W.W. Chan and Sons. He had been fitted by one of these independent fitters and was unhappy with the results, to the point that the garments were never worn. I would pause here for a moment to address a common theme on internet clothing fora, that spending large sums of money on ready-to-wear garments is an abhorrent waste, when, for the same price one could have bespoke, which would naturally be far superior, and guaranteed to be perfect. Leaving aside the fact that some people have neither the time nor the inclination to go about with the selection of cloth and details, as well as the multiple fittings required, and would much rather try something on, decide that they like it, and purchase it, the end result of bespoke clothing is not always guaranteed to please. Having spent a large sum of money on a RTW suit, they are at least assured of what they are getting in the end. Stories like this one, where large sums of money were spent on bespoke clothing which ended up not only disappointing but unwearable should serve to quiet those who would advise that buying Brioni or Purple Label is an extravagance to be avoided in favor of having something made in a bespoke workshop.<br />
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The only reason I bring all this up is that a well-known clothing blogger had a garment made by B&T through a different fitter, and while his garment was at least wearable, he was <a href="https://www.permanentstyle.com/2018/02/btailor-jacket-via-robin-pettersson-review.html">disappointed in the results</a>. On the other hand, the impeccably-dressed <a href="https://www.instagram.com/andreasweinas/?hl=en">Andreas Weinas</a> has had garments made by this same fitter and was very pleased so these may be two unfortunate blips.<br />
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I don't typically like to get in to this type of discussion but I wasn't sure if it would be proper to talk about the garment without discussing the reasons I had it. If the garment were horribly made I would have either ignored it entirely or perhaps <a href="http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2015/06/menefreghismo.html">torn it to shreds</a>. But the garment is actually well-made, the trousers especially so, so I thought it worth examining.<br />
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The first word that comes to mind when looking at the workmanship is "neat". It is very clean. Made of Minnis' Fresco, this is a classic 3 roll to 2 with a relatively natural shoulder.<br />
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The breast pocket is done in a neapolitan-inspired "barchetta" style, though I don't care for the shape of it, one side being wider than the other.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhlzSWTQODcXW4rSGGBld0mxRA5WJyVbrV2fhZBntSCTvVSvVYs-t2f1UZfk0h9Sa3DQFkrxVszgtsbqnVP6ybw1VVopi4xG4x6DvJRadnXd5W0UW97b-fXSXZslafUpE18LqBdC2Pppjl/s1600/IMG_8941.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1132" data-original-width="1600" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhlzSWTQODcXW4rSGGBld0mxRA5WJyVbrV2fhZBntSCTvVSvVYs-t2f1UZfk0h9Sa3DQFkrxVszgtsbqnVP6ybw1VVopi4xG4x6DvJRadnXd5W0UW97b-fXSXZslafUpE18LqBdC2Pppjl/s320/IMG_8941.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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The buttonholes are only ok, though perhaps because they, too, bear a resemblance to those from the south of Italy. Fresco is not an easy cloth to make buttonholes in so perhaps they do better work on more tightly woven cloth.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRHXN-WZQrUUmSItm0rdPcRHmotUA1v4XMm7rDtmSouMqwLohLU8982vrU8KlvJZyeUYKJWT4GiJhZrVHIJ-daNYuJfb05r4B9o36W4a832RZX-UY9BnxAOrDtrt9ApcWB3yIhGBW7euOT/s1600/IMG_8942.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1053" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRHXN-WZQrUUmSItm0rdPcRHmotUA1v4XMm7rDtmSouMqwLohLU8982vrU8KlvJZyeUYKJWT4GiJhZrVHIJ-daNYuJfb05r4B9o36W4a832RZX-UY9BnxAOrDtrt9ApcWB3yIhGBW7euOT/s320/IMG_8942.jpg" width="211" /></a><br />
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The interior of the coat is neatly done, and the lining had to be engineered to fit this shape of facing. Considering how sloppy many of the coats I have dissected on this blog have been, this is one of the best executions I have seen.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvqxzAKD61OLdBXp2tKmPj5N4HpY7P3HnxHA2OJRITCubMtDEJlWvGZul0CxQaVy0CCZvc3bK5N1iqgDLm0DjxV_SxfFz_mWemnwQtIykeUfKjQuCeTG896vXw8ttDVNHumytl3wwr5kiD/s1600/IMG_8946.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvqxzAKD61OLdBXp2tKmPj5N4HpY7P3HnxHA2OJRITCubMtDEJlWvGZul0CxQaVy0CCZvc3bK5N1iqgDLm0DjxV_SxfFz_mWemnwQtIykeUfKjQuCeTG896vXw8ttDVNHumytl3wwr5kiD/s320/IMG_8946.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSCVOcAhPjezCOG3hehWvVNKudCKYmParBtoKAs7hQvLlslc_T7MTWh98yHbnnacJnwAWvKkq_H_lWWZtf-CiuH0SPGNEjkTCJbm7tZrJkSc_Qv7aqpNB-3kQZZdNJ2tdBUvESveEVmHM/s1600/IMG_8949.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSCVOcAhPjezCOG3hehWvVNKudCKYmParBtoKAs7hQvLlslc_T7MTWh98yHbnnacJnwAWvKkq_H_lWWZtf-CiuH0SPGNEjkTCJbm7tZrJkSc_Qv7aqpNB-3kQZZdNJ2tdBUvESveEVmHM/s320/IMG_8949.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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For those who fetishize high armholes, these are positively tiny.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj47TDyyD-nYg-XDjOnD6iDxvzjnunI8xx9AVIu5zkmxI7TtVUDyAI7iRELnwnIT578yIQLc6Wg3FiwFrFSu9O_YBxOyAxVU0ANb8Lz4oclQGC2UhWgK2p6pHJV2tcEgj_a9TyiyY5sYGoY/s1600/IMG_8950.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj47TDyyD-nYg-XDjOnD6iDxvzjnunI8xx9AVIu5zkmxI7TtVUDyAI7iRELnwnIT578yIQLc6Wg3FiwFrFSu9O_YBxOyAxVU0ANb8Lz4oclQGC2UhWgK2p6pHJV2tcEgj_a9TyiyY5sYGoY/s320/IMG_8950.jpg" width="213" /></a><br />
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Though the rest of the collar has been entirely constructed by hand, the gorge has been sewn by machine rather than drawn on with a stoting stitch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2L-TgDy5P-bOiibtunJVkcZSMshULHv7l9k9FrVAn-z_t8MBCVHSnbeTr1mV5d8s-qzrT-xFnBuzHsp9ulStoCSm6Ax6KzDvEKLCLonmriutflEtKQorFLCWxjlwYXHrTVglgb5XzMQlb/s1600/IMG_8945.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1228" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2L-TgDy5P-bOiibtunJVkcZSMshULHv7l9k9FrVAn-z_t8MBCVHSnbeTr1mV5d8s-qzrT-xFnBuzHsp9ulStoCSm6Ax6KzDvEKLCLonmriutflEtKQorFLCWxjlwYXHrTVglgb5XzMQlb/s320/IMG_8945.jpg" width="246" /></a><br />
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As one would expect, the canvas and small shoulder wadding has been constructed by hand.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRhmxG4lWZfUIHhU4xyGRt2Bi0b04fKVo25vwis80XKidZlj_vb3GdjWSIeurL9e4DJwBWuqWOdYeFkWPsHEcGnULebv16SlRSBM6LGhdjkXSZ_kmu3IICIyrnejtSKUh3vm5sEfUip5-5/s1600/IMG_8959.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1045" data-original-width="1600" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRhmxG4lWZfUIHhU4xyGRt2Bi0b04fKVo25vwis80XKidZlj_vb3GdjWSIeurL9e4DJwBWuqWOdYeFkWPsHEcGnULebv16SlRSBM6LGhdjkXSZ_kmu3IICIyrnejtSKUh3vm5sEfUip5-5/s320/IMG_8959.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_08jCZWXGPg5jNTz5qEIufRIf6Do2GvsNURHvr6CRp3qhNisyn6v4QHSn-hEeIrVWcApEXaLPUaKjPvZDf5B1AFu2O-UXSJzv460BdWC5qq6TsvGJrdRPfu80_zBMj8PTQfROemxmOPoy/s1600/IMG_8960.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1134" data-original-width="1600" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_08jCZWXGPg5jNTz5qEIufRIf6Do2GvsNURHvr6CRp3qhNisyn6v4QHSn-hEeIrVWcApEXaLPUaKjPvZDf5B1AFu2O-UXSJzv460BdWC5qq6TsvGJrdRPfu80_zBMj8PTQfROemxmOPoy/s320/IMG_8960.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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There are some more modern, almost industrial techniques used. Rather than the traditional, heavy edge tape, bias-cut lining has been attached to the edge of the canvas and caught in the facing seam- this keeps edges thinner and softer and is commonly used in full canvas suit factories.<br />
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The upper portion of the lapel has been stayed with fusible tape rather than sew-in tape.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN8Ot7HcE8D-RdyrHIYdwelsFOCpzRBfMiodzh0xC0ydOiYHFXtSdMqxOfOb2AWuf-1j0hyphenhyphenoK-8_cYENPZMdmI8o0WfCJJKVyslOyE5vCTO9TiVQl94JCad5wb8g_Lo4LPtMaofwq5yfcn/s1600/IMG_8971.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1600" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN8Ot7HcE8D-RdyrHIYdwelsFOCpzRBfMiodzh0xC0ydOiYHFXtSdMqxOfOb2AWuf-1j0hyphenhyphenoK-8_cYENPZMdmI8o0WfCJJKVyslOyE5vCTO9TiVQl94JCad5wb8g_Lo4LPtMaofwq5yfcn/s320/IMG_8971.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYbOGWNZYN91NUbIRMbuuUrXRawuTLdqEq1T3OO3alpDcoPBvcbcgXiwH6wMBwRm5Sh-c-6y1qKnQx1NpxYVTcPVzm6rCaGFWZNYxDd2VvyESBZH-bNm8JaKnbnGBqy955YwXdI1AoOrN/s1600/IMG_8956.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1174" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYbOGWNZYN91NUbIRMbuuUrXRawuTLdqEq1T3OO3alpDcoPBvcbcgXiwH6wMBwRm5Sh-c-6y1qKnQx1NpxYVTcPVzm6rCaGFWZNYxDd2VvyESBZH-bNm8JaKnbnGBqy955YwXdI1AoOrN/s320/IMG_8956.jpg" width="235" /></a><br />
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I find it curious that they have used what appears to be a fusible tape in the bridle, though it is sewn down with hand stitches.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaKE-RpFbvCi35vi8cMUNnyNceoLz5a_nwoSspnz2Im0gQelb4rLPzO4aDFeDR5q5ZduGwQTBemq1ds-D5jC31zbWak0W5xtY53g0ZfN4O-asbx6BkVEBJi8y-kLEflX0pZVdBWqEffBAq/s1600/IMG_8965.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaKE-RpFbvCi35vi8cMUNnyNceoLz5a_nwoSspnz2Im0gQelb4rLPzO4aDFeDR5q5ZduGwQTBemq1ds-D5jC31zbWak0W5xtY53g0ZfN4O-asbx6BkVEBJi8y-kLEflX0pZVdBWqEffBAq/s320/IMG_8965.jpg" width="213" /></a><br />
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A piece of pocketing has been placed between the canvas and the cloth to enhance the roll of the lapel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC4wcHHgSACeMlmtjSLh0r8zFOocrXhpQNwuhfq30EosMBLHPIgYfKKhv4n9Y1Ofew9mgS7oJx0Dw9zU03J23fjmMdvpfYrHLTJPsActqkcZUARo7B6OaPG1gIMrvB3tM_7QZoHrOoGlCf/s1600/IMG_8974.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1319" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC4wcHHgSACeMlmtjSLh0r8zFOocrXhpQNwuhfq30EosMBLHPIgYfKKhv4n9Y1Ofew9mgS7oJx0Dw9zU03J23fjmMdvpfYrHLTJPsActqkcZUARo7B6OaPG1gIMrvB3tM_7QZoHrOoGlCf/s320/IMG_8974.jpg" width="264" /></a><br />
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The chest canvas and haircloth have been trimmed back from the shoulder to create a softer, rounder appearance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7CIhtnAOk1Y5TLAlAwFfV82Qwu2as67aJE5IB0HoJrbJ0PFI-jqLQC9xKXDf6yBLE_8nemV-WQZRQvTkLRzm1KqcL9-zvSSLb3pFedJ7CXP-jNOBsexZ1UDIEcxQOEXNPCFntO9IEOPR/s1600/IMG_8966.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1188" data-original-width="1600" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7CIhtnAOk1Y5TLAlAwFfV82Qwu2as67aJE5IB0HoJrbJ0PFI-jqLQC9xKXDf6yBLE_8nemV-WQZRQvTkLRzm1KqcL9-zvSSLb3pFedJ7CXP-jNOBsexZ1UDIEcxQOEXNPCFntO9IEOPR/s320/IMG_8966.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2tGa9IlA_wUheHwyCxqzqGx96V6IE4nIPFLDGfbzQ1Wrg_TeN_RBNx-GCLmKpoIv7bLQm6y37gCRbzJ7UeBpVk2G0XKhLR1MFMZgWAIlxeUahsX0enk6ath4okKimTg-kGjelnTsaH2Xg/s1600/IMG_8967.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1391" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2tGa9IlA_wUheHwyCxqzqGx96V6IE4nIPFLDGfbzQ1Wrg_TeN_RBNx-GCLmKpoIv7bLQm6y37gCRbzJ7UeBpVk2G0XKhLR1MFMZgWAIlxeUahsX0enk6ath4okKimTg-kGjelnTsaH2Xg/s320/IMG_8967.jpg" width="278" /></a><br />
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The shoulder and armhole seams have been stayed with lining. The armhole seam has been opened to about 4" below the shoulder seam and a piece of bias-cut canvas has been tacked to the seam.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7OY6NTdp0BMFXsKJpR0Xzi-HOK0v5yekfjpzIUlC6ItTUzPGsa0o-3ZaW1h2tqXpF7veJ8TbiUfpzI-7XQhSGXs84VGcZ1BwxhCNNBMHo0YpbOuYv0r3Y227v8xrubLtOSXH_84bz1kO/s1600/IMG_8962.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1118" data-original-width="1600" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7OY6NTdp0BMFXsKJpR0Xzi-HOK0v5yekfjpzIUlC6ItTUzPGsa0o-3ZaW1h2tqXpF7veJ8TbiUfpzI-7XQhSGXs84VGcZ1BwxhCNNBMHo0YpbOuYv0r3Y227v8xrubLtOSXH_84bz1kO/s320/IMG_8962.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1qXdhWpl5jO5nRVs510HeBcyPC2ec3_VTp8ICAKL1GjBouj_0fTaA6Jr7TPEXH3XNxE1eKOnEJt-5BqaFM4-TvsYOBjKNHg6lJqfahKIp5gSvZBpfUklThUMRH5j9NPhiJzNp7ogYefTN/s1600/IMG_8968.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1qXdhWpl5jO5nRVs510HeBcyPC2ec3_VTp8ICAKL1GjBouj_0fTaA6Jr7TPEXH3XNxE1eKOnEJt-5BqaFM4-TvsYOBjKNHg6lJqfahKIp5gSvZBpfUklThUMRH5j9NPhiJzNp7ogYefTN/s320/IMG_8968.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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The trouser is very neatly sewn, in particular the interesting waistband treatment. There is a hidden pocket on the inside of the waistband that has been very nicely executed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicioS28sd5dDPMCiAiEMyKilsFqrvEjMhapdNjYY_P98wMhizMGPOr32ddrmrRovoTabLja1Nc79mQfwT4VJTM7qEcjr7K4Kf0KcnNQgiDDGD79nuOHqC0tZBpPJM33DuLkl_LPaGJAPon/s1600/IMG_8976.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1600" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicioS28sd5dDPMCiAiEMyKilsFqrvEjMhapdNjYY_P98wMhizMGPOr32ddrmrRovoTabLja1Nc79mQfwT4VJTM7qEcjr7K4Kf0KcnNQgiDDGD79nuOHqC0tZBpPJM33DuLkl_LPaGJAPon/s320/IMG_8976.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLoDMHfU69T2T2myt90VOAxQeACrmGi7PmaEoWr62HLPsuK_uVyqoh23ZNkzoS2lSXCo-7fyS1K1lFXWc3DbY0w70n5_mHfbY5CfaW9navikPF74jspzJSYrvsMPbTfGKbvZOrJKOC9ma/s1600/IMG_8978.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1144" data-original-width="1600" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLoDMHfU69T2T2myt90VOAxQeACrmGi7PmaEoWr62HLPsuK_uVyqoh23ZNkzoS2lSXCo-7fyS1K1lFXWc3DbY0w70n5_mHfbY5CfaW9navikPF74jspzJSYrvsMPbTfGKbvZOrJKOC9ma/s320/IMG_8978.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn-RROsMZrDmegPCiGrK1kWxloFnNH7HJvAlXz1Vn4xjsvX1VsCZAHwdeQTglawZQS3Sa9UsvxzPpdOlKHv_oMUjTzDU64ZMPhNoJw4XbC2zbK2INnegRhl49fwnhbWU2RoQJzyZTHMqTw/s1600/IMG_8979.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1150" data-original-width="1600" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn-RROsMZrDmegPCiGrK1kWxloFnNH7HJvAlXz1Vn4xjsvX1VsCZAHwdeQTglawZQS3Sa9UsvxzPpdOlKHv_oMUjTzDU64ZMPhNoJw4XbC2zbK2INnegRhl49fwnhbWU2RoQJzyZTHMqTw/s320/IMG_8979.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL9GNl08vHvQ0J0gVFCPpn3bsyW_U3B9WJgi13YaPoaxzifY4fl4W7XBKjzCUxHmRd4KDTAPHDI-b_LOvcNsajrvubzlGrH4f-v_iUI2x5PVnQtGWfhAwSBZ5BI9jqZ3yX6D0CRud9Td-A/s1600/IMG_8980.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL9GNl08vHvQ0J0gVFCPpn3bsyW_U3B9WJgi13YaPoaxzifY4fl4W7XBKjzCUxHmRd4KDTAPHDI-b_LOvcNsajrvubzlGrH4f-v_iUI2x5PVnQtGWfhAwSBZ5BI9jqZ3yX6D0CRud9Td-A/s320/IMG_8980.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOi-B0fGAWOcYXXnF9c_tRfthBkw5waQ5PYcOtyMlJ86C9w4gXtGtmqgWwN5Tt_jEpfXyWRvtlE3bPuwHFcluzO9teyZ1Qj2rOP6du9QdM2cZtif9Nm2ud_D5CrEpE7SDE-vofyDZPc433/s1600/IMG_8982.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOi-B0fGAWOcYXXnF9c_tRfthBkw5waQ5PYcOtyMlJ86C9w4gXtGtmqgWwN5Tt_jEpfXyWRvtlE3bPuwHFcluzO9teyZ1Qj2rOP6du9QdM2cZtif9Nm2ud_D5CrEpE7SDE-vofyDZPc433/s320/IMG_8982.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZYkdOU-Owgw2fGdEnrzqg0B2-Cou7slMGfyzvnKQufHodRgnQkZWsA9aKj5REiS5dkA4UM2dSgXr_HOVpDgGvq3PU0v39lNg7gSYPH-3Pj6Mp_hF-FWiHtlwBjMQ0AC4Jbs2T4YnclFQA/s1600/IMG_8985.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZYkdOU-Owgw2fGdEnrzqg0B2-Cou7slMGfyzvnKQufHodRgnQkZWsA9aKj5REiS5dkA4UM2dSgXr_HOVpDgGvq3PU0v39lNg7gSYPH-3Pj6Mp_hF-FWiHtlwBjMQ0AC4Jbs2T4YnclFQA/s320/IMG_8985.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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B&Tailor definitely knows how to make a good garment, and knows how to fit a tailor's dummy; the expression of the garments they show on Instagram is very nice. I would be very interested to see more of their work, executed by their own in-house fitters. And while the two unfortunate stories might give one pause I don't think it's a reason not to try them out; I would perhaps suggest seeing them at one of their trunk shows.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">[Please go to the new </span><a href="https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">Tuttofattoamano</a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"> to comment]</span>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-52896543279176173422018-02-07T11:34:00.001-05:002020-01-10T18:58:13.290-05:00Loro Piana Cashmere Cloud93% cashmere 7% silk.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWEu8d59S9dwLABzHT4ErrxvRruy76a-Fb2oPQ-ZPROMl2m9aTc6qMzAKzTVB9xnXILbQ9Teg-_Baa74kEMVxmOoa2ZOSJD8ES5I0VKpwKyGquLakjymaTvg224KigzE8jsF8voV5oe7g/s1600/IMG_5572.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWEu8d59S9dwLABzHT4ErrxvRruy76a-Fb2oPQ-ZPROMl2m9aTc6qMzAKzTVB9xnXILbQ9Teg-_Baa74kEMVxmOoa2ZOSJD8ES5I0VKpwKyGquLakjymaTvg224KigzE8jsF8voV5oe7g/s640/IMG_5572.JPG" width="480" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">[Please go to the new </span><a href="https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">Tuttofattoamano</a><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"> to comment]</span>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-82454102711274559832018-01-30T16:54:00.001-05:002020-01-10T18:58:28.440-05:00DivotsA few years ago I had posted about the dreaded "divots" but apparently that post has long since disappeared and people have been asking for it.<br />
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A fit defect dubbed "divots" by Styleforum can be seen in the top part of the sleeve and most people make the mistaken assumption (or assertion) that the jacket shoulder is too wide for the person. It is not.<br />
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Here is an example of a divot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUR5Dd-F2Aqh6X6vSKmrVxc1JJ6wfII4q_VrCAIeU0dP3nLZDZwC0R51e4lyGQ3ZFSCU0WOAhgeKj2WGgqhm9j1o2MvPc9UpwFtaoQ3YIIL4WjJyxzHFgovx6tRQuXrOf8QaC0xP4_87sU/s1600/divot.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1303" data-original-width="817" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUR5Dd-F2Aqh6X6vSKmrVxc1JJ6wfII4q_VrCAIeU0dP3nLZDZwC0R51e4lyGQ3ZFSCU0WOAhgeKj2WGgqhm9j1o2MvPc9UpwFtaoQ3YIIL4WjJyxzHFgovx6tRQuXrOf8QaC0xP4_87sU/s400/divot.jpg" width="251" /></a><br />
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And here are examples of coats whose shoulders are much wider than the person's shoulder but which are mysteriously free of the divots.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhibXvuls990HfzPTjoH1TAEU97PIu2VTza6E3Lyvw4Kq0RLREm6kOWtiI3pISQmdf2zPUwzK5BuQIqFiEDmma-qBfFxBEJRDa8v-d-pSnZWUHMXtrSoXNbBrqffgoN70JKx1SIr7Umi7Yn/s1600/27-The-Rake-ralph-lauren.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhibXvuls990HfzPTjoH1TAEU97PIu2VTza6E3Lyvw4Kq0RLREm6kOWtiI3pISQmdf2zPUwzK5BuQIqFiEDmma-qBfFxBEJRDa8v-d-pSnZWUHMXtrSoXNbBrqffgoN70JKx1SIr7Umi7Yn/s400/27-The-Rake-ralph-lauren.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaOVT1nuMDgL9Edyv3Yxn8I-rr2HOdOpR4Fj_3D4lVJC4xh3hEWsoHtcrKQQOiaX72YGo_h4Qp0tfC6PwDJW24-HyWJ1er02lnnrBcZEsC5ULYde8JWw6qAUYWJXfCr2DayCz3uloWGcHi/s1600/gary+cooper.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="460" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaOVT1nuMDgL9Edyv3Yxn8I-rr2HOdOpR4Fj_3D4lVJC4xh3hEWsoHtcrKQQOiaX72YGo_h4Qp0tfC6PwDJW24-HyWJ1er02lnnrBcZEsC5ULYde8JWw6qAUYWJXfCr2DayCz3uloWGcHi/s400/gary+cooper.jpg" width="299" /></a><br />
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The extended shoulder was a style feature which had become exaggerated from the late thirties through the fifties, and a more discrete amount of extension is often found in Neapolitan tailoring. So if the width of the shoulder is not to blame, what is?<br />
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In ready-to-wear it can sometimes be the result of poor pattern making or poor workmanship, but in most cases it is simply a coat that is actually too NARROW through the shoulders, especially across the upper part of the back. The tension across the back pulls the armhole out of shape and creates the divot. The easiest solution would be to try on the next size up. If you have already acquired the garment, the back can usually be let out at the center back seam, though this may result in mismatched stripes or plaids which, while ugly, are not nearly as bad as the divots. In some extreme cases the sleeve may have to be removed and the sleeve cap shortened. Neither of these alterations are simple; widening the back can be handled by your average alterations tailor but altering the sleeve cap takes someone with a greater level of skill and has a high risk of failure.<br />
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The jacket pictured above has been adjusted to widen the back and this is the result.<br />
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BEFORE<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUR5Dd-F2Aqh6X6vSKmrVxc1JJ6wfII4q_VrCAIeU0dP3nLZDZwC0R51e4lyGQ3ZFSCU0WOAhgeKj2WGgqhm9j1o2MvPc9UpwFtaoQ3YIIL4WjJyxzHFgovx6tRQuXrOf8QaC0xP4_87sU/s1600/divot.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1303" data-original-width="817" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUR5Dd-F2Aqh6X6vSKmrVxc1JJ6wfII4q_VrCAIeU0dP3nLZDZwC0R51e4lyGQ3ZFSCU0WOAhgeKj2WGgqhm9j1o2MvPc9UpwFtaoQ3YIIL4WjJyxzHFgovx6tRQuXrOf8QaC0xP4_87sU/s400/divot.jpg" width="251" /></a><br />
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AFTER<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU0pBrSEBHjMPm6HOJvvtUiR2y64mNEcYhV01aWswL5evvWzU0puy2WcTCFe2_IvVFVE75pNa-GG8sga1hbj1QVtrDfrrWydJXojaRB4-1cXSUSOtDEeROxL0_jVzKDomSIont2atVEv48/s1600/divot+clean.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="607" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU0pBrSEBHjMPm6HOJvvtUiR2y64mNEcYhV01aWswL5evvWzU0puy2WcTCFe2_IvVFVE75pNa-GG8sga1hbj1QVtrDfrrWydJXojaRB4-1cXSUSOtDEeROxL0_jVzKDomSIont2atVEv48/s400/divot+clean.jpg" width="241" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">[Please go to the new </span><a href="https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">Tuttofattoamano</a><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"> to comment]</span>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-27907098195561024252018-01-23T07:43:00.000-05:002020-01-10T18:59:02.949-05:00For the sewing room that has everythingThese gorgeous hand-turned wooden seam rippers would make a handsome addition to any work room. Available <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/EvanPDesigns?ref=search_shop_redirect">here</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoPyb88JTnsysRmShfnJmRlHsLoImn5hXv-RAgYmih2DVPhjrV6XKT-JvTL3aZobxkaI3mGnhyQc1EEAnLvkLO3G0GHR4AOsub35YwtPIKb6xaIw_9D0h-DL4piqIGdTBKPqLgChYRCWlX/s1600/seam+ripper.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1239" data-original-width="1242" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoPyb88JTnsysRmShfnJmRlHsLoImn5hXv-RAgYmih2DVPhjrV6XKT-JvTL3aZobxkaI3mGnhyQc1EEAnLvkLO3G0GHR4AOsub35YwtPIKb6xaIw_9D0h-DL4piqIGdTBKPqLgChYRCWlX/s640/seam+ripper.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">[Please go to the new </span><a href="https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">Tuttofattoamano</a><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"> to comment]</span>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-10334217808570587692017-11-10T07:37:00.001-05:002020-01-10T18:58:48.030-05:00When you don't have enough cloth...When you have a short length of the most incredible cashmere but it's not enough to make a man's coat... make a ladies' one instead.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaQKbT69C7bdDsGRvc6stojPgILkBE1EyquqndHWJ8nvpLshbEG_3QpwJ6ahkmX4PczpgsGfXn4q6P8J2Ds-LUKwJEtSJcVaDXzqu07jT4pfxNVPSfP2k2LBoEmfOzWnUiGxEKwwJrKKab/s1600/Natalie.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaQKbT69C7bdDsGRvc6stojPgILkBE1EyquqndHWJ8nvpLshbEG_3QpwJ6ahkmX4PczpgsGfXn4q6P8J2Ds-LUKwJEtSJcVaDXzqu07jT4pfxNVPSfP2k2LBoEmfOzWnUiGxEKwwJrKKab/s640/Natalie.JPG" width="480" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">[Please go to the new </span><a href="https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">Tuttofattoamano</a><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"> to comment]</span>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-49803227576036952282017-10-24T14:53:00.001-04:002020-01-10T18:59:17.289-05:00All Hands Are Not EqualAn interesting read, scanned from the Spring 1932 issue of Apparel Arts magazine<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv8yPeipNUiZwPrko2M37HwufubbJtJy0HkwICvROUqqTP3b2wA_bzEUHINeofLApUzZahvFLh-ruxgibs2Y8I7Elbdt_2g_N9NPxMSEnDYfJ8zW84YQaNOCvo2AD-fgxabCA5dxKpmmUU/s1600/IMG_4870.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv8yPeipNUiZwPrko2M37HwufubbJtJy0HkwICvROUqqTP3b2wA_bzEUHINeofLApUzZahvFLh-ruxgibs2Y8I7Elbdt_2g_N9NPxMSEnDYfJ8zW84YQaNOCvo2AD-fgxabCA5dxKpmmUU/s1600/IMG_4870.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbmAKbCAE0_MBm7Drh7D7hiAimOn5CjGr-cwTYOHFXF28idA3u4vpPCc3YgrLFt7kRcrzN4f6_hdjfh9wFPXNkcByA3egOjcdv8nkK9lsbrADw04sU5T9ByDIn-3SjDgsAJRckagJo8Eh/s1600/aa01.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbmAKbCAE0_MBm7Drh7D7hiAimOn5CjGr-cwTYOHFXF28idA3u4vpPCc3YgrLFt7kRcrzN4f6_hdjfh9wFPXNkcByA3egOjcdv8nkK9lsbrADw04sU5T9ByDIn-3SjDgsAJRckagJo8Eh/s1600/aa01.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAyDkk-F-n-ALJHwC02MPQnO3RDVmpACABtKdC8QomFfyHJrDzXLrC7PYPlLrkX_QlebYb0rSF27bRcxn0R04-aiFdImN1zZuEoeMIq81TAxNkLuyICC2ksuv6qGw9qgGOkFHns7t4MfzA/s1600/aa02.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAyDkk-F-n-ALJHwC02MPQnO3RDVmpACABtKdC8QomFfyHJrDzXLrC7PYPlLrkX_QlebYb0rSF27bRcxn0R04-aiFdImN1zZuEoeMIq81TAxNkLuyICC2ksuv6qGw9qgGOkFHns7t4MfzA/s1600/aa02.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo4famEgdOAKtAXl3gznJwUrt96V3uJaoPcDECd3rt8AS05zRmS3zwAoJ10vcRX5-CNCXh0Jd7DLy1j84OgcLujeWa1GmNHFgMgm6S-3PrL-JmEMUGkfXGBqGI18hB-hLSvw7WwVrxW8uD/s1600/aa03.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo4famEgdOAKtAXl3gznJwUrt96V3uJaoPcDECd3rt8AS05zRmS3zwAoJ10vcRX5-CNCXh0Jd7DLy1j84OgcLujeWa1GmNHFgMgm6S-3PrL-JmEMUGkfXGBqGI18hB-hLSvw7WwVrxW8uD/s1600/aa03.JPG" /></a>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-20386281779618446382017-10-19T08:54:00.001-04:002020-01-10T18:59:31.805-05:00Just something I made recentlyHand made buttonholes, of course.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUQ0vU_W-FCiniB5eAC7Drl10DDCIyAlOpkTo148wxU_FxrqD9cum8NheWUj9LQHugrgbLQYt2UF-KDH0G9w2z8NXkPbiyRXh6vtj8DqbGXNMOwpv0vB-LfIn98t8Dpiywf6Eerpoxqju/s1600/dj.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1506" data-original-width="1242" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUQ0vU_W-FCiniB5eAC7Drl10DDCIyAlOpkTo148wxU_FxrqD9cum8NheWUj9LQHugrgbLQYt2UF-KDH0G9w2z8NXkPbiyRXh6vtj8DqbGXNMOwpv0vB-LfIn98t8Dpiywf6Eerpoxqju/s640/dj.jpg" width="528" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6btHhvSi38EGhIVGAEf-5yGwyGWzowGWy_cWNZ_qFmcypg_Ks_DUCL3LAzDb21rN80h2QShykDmjbLOSjWWP_WgtHlcUPH6XWvSVw9O2N1KANwrLM4avRmBE0nrzEsMWar7TVDeS86sW3/s1600/BH.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6btHhvSi38EGhIVGAEf-5yGwyGWzowGWy_cWNZ_qFmcypg_Ks_DUCL3LAzDb21rN80h2QShykDmjbLOSjWWP_WgtHlcUPH6XWvSVw9O2N1KANwrLM4avRmBE0nrzEsMWar7TVDeS86sW3/s640/BH.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">[Please go to the new </span><a href="https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">Tuttofattoamano</a><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"> to comment]</span>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-40886084647847265982016-08-05T10:20:00.000-04:002020-01-10T18:59:53.631-05:00100 HANDSA few months ago I was contacted by Dirnelli who had seen something he thought might be of interest to me. A handmade shirt. And before I go much further let me preface by telling recent readers that one of the original intents of this blog was to explore the merits, myths and mystique of handmade clothing, with a particular focus on suits, sport coats and trousers.<br />
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There is a lot of romance surrounding the art of making clothing by hand and I feel that a lot of the techniques have been mythologized beyond what they should be, mainly repeated received wisdom without challenging the shibboltehs of 100 years ago. Such myths as seams having to be done by hand in order to give them elasticity of which a machine is not capable, to which I ask, if a machine is not capable of producing a seam with elasticity, then are bathing suits, underwear and athletic wear all sewn by hand? Or perhaps that a hand-sewn seam will mold to the body in a way a machine-sewn seam can not. It is said that hand tailoring is just better than machine sewing. This is often part of a marketing spiel designed to sell you an expensive product.<br />
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It is true that there are certain steps in the tailoring process which are still better done by hand, not because it would have been impossible to create machines which would reproduce the same effect, but that the cost-benefit ratio never made it worthwhile to develop such machines. No hand will ever sew with the same amount of regularity and precision as a machine will. A lockstitched machine seam is far stronger than a handsewn running stitch or backstitch. A machine will always create cleaner, more even, and usually stronger results.<br />
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But let's now back up a little bit.<br />
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While it is true that a machine will usually create a more perfect result, perhaps perfection is not always the desired result. Would you rather have a perfect photocopy of a treasured painting or drawing, or a rather a less perfect one drawn or painted by the hands of an artist?<br />
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When we do away with the silly argument that a handmade garment is measurably better than a machine made garment, there is certainly a case to be made for the appreciation of the craftsmanship that goes in to a hand made garment. When making my own suits for myself I will generally do most things by hand even though I have access to the best equipment and machines that exist, merely because I enjoy doing it and I enjoy the imperfect result of the work of my own hands. <br />
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Back to the story of our shirts.<br />
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When I first heard of this handmade shirt my initial reaction was mixed. When I first learned how to make shirts, many steps were done by hand merely because we didn't have the right equipment or the technical expertise to properly and neatly finish them by machine. I have seen beautifully-sewn shirts being made by hand at Hermes but which would admittedly not stand up to a machine washing. I was ready to hear the usual story about this or that step must be done by hand in order to infuse the soul of the mountain in whose shadow the shirts were sewn or some such nonsense. But when I spoke to the founders of the company they were refreshing forthcoming about their approach. They made no pretense about hand sewing being the sine qua non or substantially better than machines. They simply appreciate the tradition, the skill and the craftsmanship.<br />
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And that, to me, is a whole other matter. I can definitely relate to that.<br />
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So they offered to send me a shirt to look at. Based in Amsterdam, the production is actually done in India. I won't dive deep in to their story here as you can read all about it on <a href="http://www.100hands.nl/">their own website</a>. Suffice it to say that a shirt with this level of workmanship would be completely out of the reach of most people if it were done anywhere other than a place like India or China. And perhaps I need to remind some readers that India and China were producing some of the best textiles in the world while the west was in burlap diapers. Some of the most intricate embroideries and handwork that I have ever seen have come out of Asia so we need to suspend our knee-jerk association of Asia with cheap, badly-made crap for a moment.<br />
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This shirt truly is hand made. Certain seams which require strength have been sewn by machine using impossibly tiny stitches, but practically everything else has been done by hand. While many hand finished shirts I have seen use longer, lighter stitches usually out of expediency, those stitches are often delicate and do not withstand the kind of abuse to which a shirt is often subjected. In this case, however, the sewing is astonishing, both in the density of the stitches which make for a far more durable garment, as for their evenness and regularity.<br />
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The collar is constructed by machine but attached to the body entirely by hand using almost invisible slip stitches, and the buttonholes are excellent. <br />
Perhaps you can see the almost invisible stitches used to keep the placket in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMdGd3RrKXXPUdGH-Vs7kiL4mWBOa1axFAFm3x-p3F7AbH8p6lV-hUltHgOp2vjGKeIc_P1O-Ky7UqRF99K-SbPZ0C_lrHRNl35fpkNUHtW2sCTgn6GElnbJTMX5ayWiuKmGlB0Or-2_9a/s1600/Label.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMdGd3RrKXXPUdGH-Vs7kiL4mWBOa1axFAFm3x-p3F7AbH8p6lV-hUltHgOp2vjGKeIc_P1O-Ky7UqRF99K-SbPZ0C_lrHRNl35fpkNUHtW2sCTgn6GElnbJTMX5ayWiuKmGlB0Or-2_9a/s640/Label.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqz5XhnroJ8T2eUKaK1xcoTBafpjYUNgop8LcLnWoDCmnXdUVMRXZv39yxBoyszD5w-I0dLS0w04ZrOvyRtuPuQlc4qce1izGjYpp-QTOAwfzEDJ5wPWbOCFD3_QlAsyyBGhdKoDMwUBgY/s1600/Buttonholes.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="417" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqz5XhnroJ8T2eUKaK1xcoTBafpjYUNgop8LcLnWoDCmnXdUVMRXZv39yxBoyszD5w-I0dLS0w04ZrOvyRtuPuQlc4qce1izGjYpp-QTOAwfzEDJ5wPWbOCFD3_QlAsyyBGhdKoDMwUBgY/s640/Buttonholes.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvVwxy2QYU64Ueijt1ByVperHcG5qsxLn-1pk6RlISde4OT8zQKae1BijVz39QLJCjZaagTQGngKFksZ5cucyUFKYhy5nxZchSCmNCV_ShDoX6-zsWo5leoprY5GHPIUjW4Nhh_Ks-jZcz/s1600/Front+placket.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvVwxy2QYU64Ueijt1ByVperHcG5qsxLn-1pk6RlISde4OT8zQKae1BijVz39QLJCjZaagTQGngKFksZ5cucyUFKYhy5nxZchSCmNCV_ShDoX6-zsWo5leoprY5GHPIUjW4Nhh_Ks-jZcz/s640/Front+placket.jpg" width="503" /></a><br />
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The same density of tiny hand stitches is used to finish the flat-felled seams on the side of the shirt and the sleeve, as well as the armscye seam. The cuffs and sleeve plackets have been finished by hand with slip stitching, pick stitching and a hand bar tack.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJvGhS5M22bTld4Hfvb78v1qCXaTtAZZPDjv21iw-EzLa5fWI8vHSEFfxz3a_ieqL0k8FYeI23Ej_bPv20svNTwkOdpcGSrpobAnrFyd8NCCeo5PvKnKGVzYXRrnHsnt4lIPVV-vKJEtpk/s1600/scye+inside.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJvGhS5M22bTld4Hfvb78v1qCXaTtAZZPDjv21iw-EzLa5fWI8vHSEFfxz3a_ieqL0k8FYeI23Ej_bPv20svNTwkOdpcGSrpobAnrFyd8NCCeo5PvKnKGVzYXRrnHsnt4lIPVV-vKJEtpk/s640/scye+inside.jpg" width="456" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWA2feZs9etJdS4RTTAoBDM4lnvGpNXP9TZ3OBHVCeg8zUUi4GHRjB-8QknmnzAGPOsVh3Rm5BHAnuMSQFyBAtubsGcXGxs2V7rD_8gqGLfaem-A_NRaDmXkj0XFrjnckLfdbgX0CJumI3/s1600/Sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="417" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWA2feZs9etJdS4RTTAoBDM4lnvGpNXP9TZ3OBHVCeg8zUUi4GHRjB-8QknmnzAGPOsVh3Rm5BHAnuMSQFyBAtubsGcXGxs2V7rD_8gqGLfaem-A_NRaDmXkj0XFrjnckLfdbgX0CJumI3/s640/Sleeve.jpg" width="640" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilAWzmwg8xdPX79C07yIl7RCnuLToYGdDgf6tLOXgoIqv3wy1KdvEgL7zgjRzLjVRG3GNp6rKFPdSkj7v3XiLaW0KFhSPJ5A4lf8tBoEXXilDOwLgs4kz-K5_3PK_qB_eR-Hqla6XQOZ-F/s1600/Slv+placket.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilAWzmwg8xdPX79C07yIl7RCnuLToYGdDgf6tLOXgoIqv3wy1KdvEgL7zgjRzLjVRG3GNp6rKFPdSkj7v3XiLaW0KFhSPJ5A4lf8tBoEXXilDOwLgs4kz-K5_3PK_qB_eR-Hqla6XQOZ-F/s640/Slv+placket.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The hem has been rolled using the same technique we find on the best scarves and pocket squares.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7GM52Edp_u2IG_Ruu3VG8UNesdjRifoNDygvu98vRk1s_KUbSpISsr4iiN-x14zEm6S0onYWMQk5gjaMajTIP8avWIKHuhjUzKjiMpqKUjk7ES6u6A5-L4Ui2zkJtsyH3WMbmbYlp46M/s1600/hem.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7GM52Edp_u2IG_Ruu3VG8UNesdjRifoNDygvu98vRk1s_KUbSpISsr4iiN-x14zEm6S0onYWMQk5gjaMajTIP8avWIKHuhjUzKjiMpqKUjk7ES6u6A5-L4Ui2zkJtsyH3WMbmbYlp46M/s640/hem.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Naturally, buttons are mother-of-pearl and are sewn on by hand. I am going to subject this shirt to the usual indignities of laundering, both domestic and "professional" to see how it holds up by judging by the density and bite of the stitching I see no reason at all to believe it won't hold up. Only a few washings will tell for for sure. And even though this is made in India, the amount of labor involved is very high so the price will reflect it- this is not a shirt for bargain-hunters. But for people who love craftsmanship and appreciate the details, as I do, there is a lot to love in this shirt and while many of the customers in the luxury market are impossibly driven by brands so might not give this shirt the same consideration they would to a more famous maker in the south of Italy, I think that would be a shame and they might be missing out on a splendid garment.<br />
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UPDATE<br />
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Having visibly struggled in the attempt to produce decent close-up shots of the detail, 100 Hands kindly sent me some of their photos, shown below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgySAgbLEbVA67cfmnG7kHmcDPOFbxe1-7NreI82VZOAM2muHFVNrP9TNmb_mh1ld_aOxuSupHhLvFb3uzgPBl0F399b5zdx98Jmd-yWM9FBNLUGpMYBHh7OdH75nUigkSlKxAZaKMQH2sx/s1600/Detail.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgySAgbLEbVA67cfmnG7kHmcDPOFbxe1-7NreI82VZOAM2muHFVNrP9TNmb_mh1ld_aOxuSupHhLvFb3uzgPBl0F399b5zdx98Jmd-yWM9FBNLUGpMYBHh7OdH75nUigkSlKxAZaKMQH2sx/s1600/Detail.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwAfGa7Hj5QKbBCM0hZ0T82JLcH58dcPveIcs37Neq1O8wjcuFEzUKRAQ6OmXEpsmHSXyDGy1-xmZe60u1pMHIzaMudz0xt8RDJlgEo2taHHMmAs6wZBF8NITO5_7t5cTK6o6T_-nwbhoz/s1600/IMG_0110.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwAfGa7Hj5QKbBCM0hZ0T82JLcH58dcPveIcs37Neq1O8wjcuFEzUKRAQ6OmXEpsmHSXyDGy1-xmZe60u1pMHIzaMudz0xt8RDJlgEo2taHHMmAs6wZBF8NITO5_7t5cTK6o6T_-nwbhoz/s1600/IMG_0110.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxDhY3Zb8vsrBS3COoil6krWBFjJ3FTfYn6_8J8UOsobI_fxhrFJYCfs7aT4Auifrr8RcfpGDkJ_u9NyaXh-EvNKVuqXMnqYWtMmPYIS2xw2IACAGymivmGYgk_xJ_5UIe4jrIo_NOALJz/s1600/IMG_0114.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxDhY3Zb8vsrBS3COoil6krWBFjJ3FTfYn6_8J8UOsobI_fxhrFJYCfs7aT4Auifrr8RcfpGDkJ_u9NyaXh-EvNKVuqXMnqYWtMmPYIS2xw2IACAGymivmGYgk_xJ_5UIe4jrIo_NOALJz/s1600/IMG_0114.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlCIutgAMIgjLUl9_RJEhpKGJdBNxTvZDoAB4AvNIzWDBSmJKjeieYJZH5QlKKFO-LBUGH1xVBW39FbwTbjODMVnSoQ2qIc-T1dh015vBTVVMW93xwb5V6SE13gtB28Sc-GzDNja7qo8ef/s1600/IMG_0132.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlCIutgAMIgjLUl9_RJEhpKGJdBNxTvZDoAB4AvNIzWDBSmJKjeieYJZH5QlKKFO-LBUGH1xVBW39FbwTbjODMVnSoQ2qIc-T1dh015vBTVVMW93xwb5V6SE13gtB28Sc-GzDNja7qo8ef/s1600/IMG_0132.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSaW4vEdF-ilvBd9DS8PjL_qG8-J6izG6LTnpIJms2TBDnzcZ7_IXL9wW3kDelWHzlp4NoX8QTlnYWWzoEIBlz60JgsF-PHR3_1XEeu09JToqc-gmuRKu8XqP4Rl39QRk4bWruMnF3n5Jp/s1600/IMG_0133.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSaW4vEdF-ilvBd9DS8PjL_qG8-J6izG6LTnpIJms2TBDnzcZ7_IXL9wW3kDelWHzlp4NoX8QTlnYWWzoEIBlz60JgsF-PHR3_1XEeu09JToqc-gmuRKu8XqP4Rl39QRk4bWruMnF3n5Jp/s1600/IMG_0133.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0h0bC0xdF6iEbO9Ta4mJleJBNc15UPmIPKJOm0wNQsPrRT1dPecnf5ZHfgKEZIO_GUn_Ihx89bpNOlvn7NXkpweCxd2i19knCF_auBBH4kGFM-sfkMyGGm1-Ieu0G0HcPFhFaC1yZzxHT/s1600/IMG_0134.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0h0bC0xdF6iEbO9Ta4mJleJBNc15UPmIPKJOm0wNQsPrRT1dPecnf5ZHfgKEZIO_GUn_Ihx89bpNOlvn7NXkpweCxd2i19knCF_auBBH4kGFM-sfkMyGGm1-Ieu0G0HcPFhFaC1yZzxHT/s1600/IMG_0134.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuNcCq-b31k1Y284dbevHNab30HTUvos2Dhrpu6nqxv9klu0m3wzylkLwrIZKLZJdjFXUTKkwTSSR0BEy8DMRAUmQXaWGOS-sYPGpglNEtJ7Uo5mTZB_HAIOKFRUbjbDEN5AvnEXlgPoaP/s1600/IMG_0135.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuNcCq-b31k1Y284dbevHNab30HTUvos2Dhrpu6nqxv9klu0m3wzylkLwrIZKLZJdjFXUTKkwTSSR0BEy8DMRAUmQXaWGOS-sYPGpglNEtJ7Uo5mTZB_HAIOKFRUbjbDEN5AvnEXlgPoaP/s1600/IMG_0135.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTKxsp21FQQAGiD6_PI77ILNIDnbG3YrrdRaVOqNMBGpTbsw_ZxZj8uz0ftfZbbIaCsYn9P5cp-2Vd1VnbLOoF74MZvb2xTuWqKDUxhxGGkO7atGWIqkCeLvu49TI7ehKzt_kNvJi3IiIB/s1600/IMG_0137.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTKxsp21FQQAGiD6_PI77ILNIDnbG3YrrdRaVOqNMBGpTbsw_ZxZj8uz0ftfZbbIaCsYn9P5cp-2Vd1VnbLOoF74MZvb2xTuWqKDUxhxGGkO7atGWIqkCeLvu49TI7ehKzt_kNvJi3IiIB/s1600/IMG_0137.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyN7Jz7XLqsLvSWQIIyTZIMVhczpEnHhmPnNZrOc0Bkbs1G-REM_gm-D_s3iloUSzOYD5qjy1Grst5tAXsmFtgiZbqV6tDzx2F8r5ahtFIbrAdJXjnGEZkNxKj0Io7Fi3b4lpcEAeeTswP/s1600/IMG_0148.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyN7Jz7XLqsLvSWQIIyTZIMVhczpEnHhmPnNZrOc0Bkbs1G-REM_gm-D_s3iloUSzOYD5qjy1Grst5tAXsmFtgiZbqV6tDzx2F8r5ahtFIbrAdJXjnGEZkNxKj0Io7Fi3b4lpcEAeeTswP/s1600/IMG_0148.JPG" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">[Please go to the new </span><a href="https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">Tuttofattoamano</a><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"> to comment]</span>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-67300327974448999812016-05-02T11:47:00.002-04:002016-05-16T13:42:13.137-04:00A piece of historyI just took over an office from someone who left Hickey Freeman. It was the office occupied by former designers and executives of the company and hadn't been cleaned out in, well, ages. It's in the corner of a suite of offices which have remained largely unchanged since they were built in 1912. I figured I might find some little treasures hidden in boxes, forgotten. I never thought I would find something that is so significant, at least in my mind.<br />
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There is a little side office adjoined to mine, in which there was a drafting table on which the designers would make their patterns, plus some shelves and two garment bags tucked behind the door. Behind the door and a stack of patterns I found this. This is a morning suit which was made for Walter B. D. Hickey (sr.) in 1929, six months before the market crash which caused the great depression. Mr. Hickey was the chairman of Hickey Freeman in the late sixties and judging by the date and size, it must have been made for him when he was a boy. His son, Mr. Hickey jr., now retired, was in last week for a visit- I will give him a call to see what he knows about this garment.<br />
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What is particularly exciting about this is the provenance and the condition. When looking at vintage garments we often have no idea for whom it was made, by whom, and when we do, there is often little information about them. In this case, not only do we know when it was made, for whom, exactly who that person is (and that person has a prominent place in the history of the clothing industry in America), but this garment was never worn. It is in mint condition. The silk lining in the sleeves has started to deteriorate a little, but the silk in the body is absolutely immaculate. I've never seen a garment of this age in this condition. <br />
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I'll post more photos when I get back from travelling next week, but in the meantime I'm going to reach out to a few people to consult with them on proper storage and what the best home for this would be. The costume institute, perhaps?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJO1o8QW9CbsXraf1K59hruIPfBRbFeiWFiNos1APdE15QsKT6iza1UvN2yux3V5fuR4kq_m6K0H2Hg7fLjTChuhOH2FdynjDpXgaO3J7SpW8eP2AstSt0uB-gTKzUMydeT0stIlpRsYzU/s1600/IMG_0779.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJO1o8QW9CbsXraf1K59hruIPfBRbFeiWFiNos1APdE15QsKT6iza1UvN2yux3V5fuR4kq_m6K0H2Hg7fLjTChuhOH2FdynjDpXgaO3J7SpW8eP2AstSt0uB-gTKzUMydeT0stIlpRsYzU/s1600/IMG_0779.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ledjMhRChDkyEPng2HAEOmJLIkwDRHCL-IqkrxNt6Ve9c4wwSuwYn5mA26dU2ggNkaYy43A3mdlFQtDtt32TTSD7eLvaHwagAqPblMqei5pWiTOcSNn0kBwBwr0nOIDxkUCbg-BN6_DH/s1600/IMG_0786.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ledjMhRChDkyEPng2HAEOmJLIkwDRHCL-IqkrxNt6Ve9c4wwSuwYn5mA26dU2ggNkaYy43A3mdlFQtDtt32TTSD7eLvaHwagAqPblMqei5pWiTOcSNn0kBwBwr0nOIDxkUCbg-BN6_DH/s1600/IMG_0786.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JQj0LaosycHbhpNSWfirGSU7aeWiDjV_D0GIPl0_3KDHBohz3kZ0RYG5yMd7-Hy0TsKVnrqvxhFtp-YomgYKh86gso4SIzcyrRJ9d1opuGcMgv1MZOK-E46N8omCMBWFX3ymE0VhOlfs/s1600/IMG_0787.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JQj0LaosycHbhpNSWfirGSU7aeWiDjV_D0GIPl0_3KDHBohz3kZ0RYG5yMd7-Hy0TsKVnrqvxhFtp-YomgYKh86gso4SIzcyrRJ9d1opuGcMgv1MZOK-E46N8omCMBWFX3ymE0VhOlfs/s1600/IMG_0787.JPG" /></a><br />
R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-73491921288250686952016-04-27T07:38:00.000-04:002016-04-27T07:38:35.372-04:00Made in the USA- United States Olympic TeamVery proud to be a part of the making of the <a href="http://www.ralphlauren.com/teamusa/made-in-usa?AB=en_US_HP_slot_1_S1_Explore">United States Olympic Team uniforms</a>.<br />
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<iframe width="1200" height="753" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LZsIdJtoccc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnFyWYe2aSOm4nKn0gRJ-5wFZg12ZLUYxx0kmNATba0sAVUoJdS0_K-HKeY_8T8SqUkt7s-RgB9DaFYdANDYa7KcwnL8tzqCa3pQPrxyT8qEcyEQWWpZUysuKR6vp3sInYZzA5eeWwa1_s/s1600/Screenshot+2016-04-27+07.35.30.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnFyWYe2aSOm4nKn0gRJ-5wFZg12ZLUYxx0kmNATba0sAVUoJdS0_K-HKeY_8T8SqUkt7s-RgB9DaFYdANDYa7KcwnL8tzqCa3pQPrxyT8qEcyEQWWpZUysuKR6vp3sInYZzA5eeWwa1_s/s640/Screenshot+2016-04-27+07.35.30.png" /></a>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-14247463427847314142016-03-09T14:47:00.000-05:002016-03-09T14:47:01.363-05:00Something new for next springSomething new I'm working on, with completely un-padded shoulders. This is not your father's Hickey Freeman.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSz4PMgbed54lWtCPJZwoBct5yJ_dWsFp4Kg-zZfXtI97T7LASguvqlIS820yyiiaMOV_iWm94uIN5eGRF-wYGdoyJ9640dvmvKfUc6OVBuYBVUTMsqwMy2-dTmAf4q2BMEX7GD3vRPjtk/s1600/coat.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSz4PMgbed54lWtCPJZwoBct5yJ_dWsFp4Kg-zZfXtI97T7LASguvqlIS820yyiiaMOV_iWm94uIN5eGRF-wYGdoyJ9640dvmvKfUc6OVBuYBVUTMsqwMy2-dTmAf4q2BMEX7GD3vRPjtk/s640/coat.JPG" /></a>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-9806117866136216262016-02-27T17:41:00.000-05:002016-02-27T17:41:15.220-05:00My brain hurtsCAD software can be pretty complex. I've been using the same software for about 20 years now, from a company called Gerber Technologies. I do all my pattern design, grading, alterations, and made-to-measure on this platform. Or rather, I did. When I joined Hickey Freeman they were in the process of doing a very significant upgrade of their own CAD software, from a company called Lectra (it's actually former investronica software, but they were bought by Lectra). In a way it was fortunate timing because everybody had to be retrained on the new version they are installing because they jumped four versions. Lots of new functions. But for me, who has never seen this platform before, it's like unlearning how to ride a bike and trying to learn how to do it upside down and backwards. Blindfolded. It has some great functionality built in but it's just killing me trying to learn it in the very short period of time that the trainer is here from Spain. One great thing is that I have it installed on a laptop so I can bring it home and work in my pajamas. I could never do that before so this weekend is all about practicing with this new software.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIDeKtMEkE2Vvq3eaNIVnkKuCWnX1AUuc1n2RdouOvb8WCAr-pMNo6abAvAisIoPy-2hMYRAploG4ncOU52jOPFdcdfQgukoA4S1U-QapuFSGnq2glXHV-SQLxk3OU2P3cUyhSEiJjsF6O/s1600/inves.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIDeKtMEkE2Vvq3eaNIVnkKuCWnX1AUuc1n2RdouOvb8WCAr-pMNo6abAvAisIoPy-2hMYRAploG4ncOU52jOPFdcdfQgukoA4S1U-QapuFSGnq2glXHV-SQLxk3OU2P3cUyhSEiJjsF6O/s320/inves.png" /></a>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-56105072541208056472015-12-17T12:48:00.000-05:002015-12-17T12:48:27.160-05:00Going homeA personal note.<br />
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Shortly after I finished design school I was working at a small design house in Montreal when someone from one of the local factories told me that the general manager of the place they worked wanted to meet me. It had come to his attention that there was a young tailor working right around the corner and they needed more tailors. I had known of Samuelsohn for a very long time so I was excited to be summoned. They offered me a job right away and I accepted and began a career in tailored clothing manufacturing.<br />
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Samuelsohn is a company which places a high degree of importance on quality so I learned a lot about the mechanization and industrialization of traditional tailoring techniques with which I was already familiar, but never did I see an engineer doing time studies or hear discussions about costs or yields or output. After some time with the company my mentor told me that there was another company which needed someone like me. I didn't want to leave but he told me that I had a good understanding of how to do things well, but no idea how to do things efficiently and inexpensively, and that I should go work for a variety of companies and learn the different facets of the industry. Learn how to manufacture garments offshore. Learn how to forecast fabric and trim requirements. All sorts of things. He told me I wouldn't be ready to settle until I was into my forties. So armed with this advice I left Samuelsohn to go work for an importer, and then a few companies after that. On my last day a member of the Samuelsohn family told me that I would be back some day, that this was my home and my family. <br />
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Fast forward about 15 years and I was approached to go work for HMX group, formerly known as Hartmarx, in Chicago. I would take over the Hart Schaffner & Marx brand and help revitalize it, but one of the carrots they dangled was the opportunity to do some work with, and then perhaps some day take over as well, our sister company Hickey Freeman. Hickey Freeman is a factory that does some beautiful garments, mostly full-canvas like Samuelsohn, and I was lucky to work with that factory and with another mentor who was there at the time, Paul Farrington. At one point Hickey Freeman was sold, interestingly enough, to Samuelsohn, which was a huge disappointment to me. Some time later I was approached about helping to turn around another struggling company in the south, so I and two other colleagues ade plans to go south and fix the struggling company.<br />
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The company in question had been forced in to bankruptcy and had been producing very low cost and low quality garments. Our job was to redesign all the product, redesign the factory so that they could produce a better quality garment, teach existing staff how to do it, and hire other new staff and train them. A year and a half later we have gone from 210 employees to well over 300, we have made major strides in the quality, fit and appearance of the garments being produced, and were recently honored with an award given by a magazine which is hugely popular n the south known as Garden and Gun. There are still challenges which exist in terms of getting everyone up to full efficiency so the factory can meet the huge increase in demand, and some tweaks to the fit now that we see full production runs instead of just samples, but I feel like the bulk of the heavy lifting has been done.<br />
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So now I have a chance to "go home". I will be joining (or re-joining) the Luxury Mens Apparel Group, the company which owns Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman in the new year, going back to work with a lot of the same people I have worked with over the years, plus a lot of new and fantastic ones. I will spend some time in Montreal, at Samuelsohn, before settling in Rochester at the Hickey Freeman factory. And now that I have reached those dreaded forties I am hoping it's now time to settle down. So Jack and George were both right, those twenty years ago.<br />
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R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-24526529002007024612015-12-04T16:48:00.000-05:002015-12-04T16:48:00.923-05:00Some more flannelIt's flannel weather again (thank god!) Here's a suit that the dog decided to help out on- she supervised the making of the buttonholes...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjytkXFa6KYcRuyTKvgnDYNtLSd3__WwWYGZ2zhpl3R85yJ_1UKMn1NoLiCjrkuQnGl1GVyXXvGJHT6mPoeg-68UVLWrHD_J5DZniogpiW75YPt6MJ91_mkGWt-5Z2_hGeu7HR9DulE5zbt/s1600/IMG_9558.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjytkXFa6KYcRuyTKvgnDYNtLSd3__WwWYGZ2zhpl3R85yJ_1UKMn1NoLiCjrkuQnGl1GVyXXvGJHT6mPoeg-68UVLWrHD_J5DZniogpiW75YPt6MJ91_mkGWt-5Z2_hGeu7HR9DulE5zbt/s320/IMG_9558.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCslrGbGoIm94z3PdRGwg_PLosI-CZwgsyQeBIcLTCibt7U2uFPn_DTgsA_znAPVjXKnzIgMfMT8ibKuSorjL9y0pMbQn4NkKBuZx1yK90lwzgG7a4ovOebn1bJAScRLVKKVrTwXQ49_NB/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCslrGbGoIm94z3PdRGwg_PLosI-CZwgsyQeBIcLTCibt7U2uFPn_DTgsA_znAPVjXKnzIgMfMT8ibKuSorjL9y0pMbQn4NkKBuZx1yK90lwzgG7a4ovOebn1bJAScRLVKKVrTwXQ49_NB/s320/FullSizeRender.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinXgII8-oe6pKzw81SkTnW2YR2_OlAA6fqAA3ATrwbP-yCgXJYgnSO3CmMTNbrJwt53R_2_7zuj-FWuzKwAjPIZtAIjo-4g0x50X7ZtwGgo_Zh7sufKJMiDKdSWovaVlwFegRvZaffpZjL/s1600/IMG_8947.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinXgII8-oe6pKzw81SkTnW2YR2_OlAA6fqAA3ATrwbP-yCgXJYgnSO3CmMTNbrJwt53R_2_7zuj-FWuzKwAjPIZtAIjo-4g0x50X7ZtwGgo_Zh7sufKJMiDKdSWovaVlwFegRvZaffpZjL/s320/IMG_8947.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_4T88tZal7Re9LXm346bi7jlitNWHu5R5-BoBoKAKUqtK2P8lUafdtGvgA7Jm2XaVZ14ZzM63tgB0Xsxou6jOUnYiYD-uO-utTAOdp5inSlGvMmm3dR0jLikzgOXdL9BylCWqQYFMs1Z/s1600/IMG_9060.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_4T88tZal7Re9LXm346bi7jlitNWHu5R5-BoBoKAKUqtK2P8lUafdtGvgA7Jm2XaVZ14ZzM63tgB0Xsxou6jOUnYiYD-uO-utTAOdp5inSlGvMmm3dR0jLikzgOXdL9BylCWqQYFMs1Z/s320/IMG_9060.JPG" /></a>R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5233561143856860698.post-78576202726327011832015-09-21T15:05:00.000-04:002015-09-21T15:05:28.688-04:00PENTSThe suit that I <a href="http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2015/06/menefreghismo.html">most recently dissected</a> came with a pair of "pents" (as the Italians refer to them) made by another maker, this one even more well-known than the coat maker. While there was initially some debate about their provenance, Vox tells me that the maker emailed him to confirm that he did, in fact make them (some will recall that Vox obtained the suit second-hand from the original owner). So even though I have confirmation that it is his work, he is often dyspeptic when it comes to discussions of his work. That and the fact that were a number of what I think were after-market alterations which make it difficult to really gauge the level of workmanship so I am going to tread lightly on this one; in this case it seemed that the lining was added after the completion of the garment and while it would be normal to have the original maker do that kind of alteration, it is not a given, and since the workmanship of that particular alteration was so bad and at the same time unattributed, I will have to try to remove the lining first before looking more closely at the rest. They are, however, interesting, so as soon as I figure out a way of examining them without inviting comments about the shape and size of my head I will do so.<br />
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In trying to determine whether the lining was original or after-market (his other clients assured me that the maker discourages lining), Derek of the blogs <a href="http://putthison.com/">Put This On</a> and <a href="http://dieworkwear.com/">Die, Workwear!</a> generously offered to photograph some of the trousers he has had made by a variety of makers. I found them interesting to look and he gave me permission to share them.<br />
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Thank you, Derek.<br />
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Napoli Su Misura<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmbsMWFBLzIdHxJPG4xXwmnYfAHoXak5x4b6y8o9c5UxH2YXjJET59ExzUTOYuVFaDoem4cdbIABq1VRsxssbLGU20-pjX_aRGI7JbRIovNAWddb3JbsyaEJMPyKRiDqROLkXyaXd5Blng/s1600/nsm+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmbsMWFBLzIdHxJPG4xXwmnYfAHoXak5x4b6y8o9c5UxH2YXjJET59ExzUTOYuVFaDoem4cdbIABq1VRsxssbLGU20-pjX_aRGI7JbRIovNAWddb3JbsyaEJMPyKRiDqROLkXyaXd5Blng/s400/nsm+back.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh9WykAHtBSiDAy-thQ9dlbjL83I11uxMEm949NgYk6aqBzqt3JLNHrjQmhnt3oEK6mmS8UrsZvgFZWc3ci1Wb7WPc1GTI1jREbaf03X193eGMXYo6DQ7oFTFvwQrBaGp_keiyUcgdOkQ3/s1600/nsm+front+full.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh9WykAHtBSiDAy-thQ9dlbjL83I11uxMEm949NgYk6aqBzqt3JLNHrjQmhnt3oEK6mmS8UrsZvgFZWc3ci1Wb7WPc1GTI1jREbaf03X193eGMXYo6DQ7oFTFvwQrBaGp_keiyUcgdOkQ3/s400/nsm+front+full.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihebCogycZofNyzthslCBmir6MvXm7fv-w2FzRNGJyZ5imihk97-Iv7Cp-ZNs4lZPAc1rP0488ik2omHbmOXWITDmUcnSLppTHC7Arh7SIsddNmIACFCeS5y16q7SJ27yV8wbo8eF_08qt/s1600/nsm+front+left.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihebCogycZofNyzthslCBmir6MvXm7fv-w2FzRNGJyZ5imihk97-Iv7Cp-ZNs4lZPAc1rP0488ik2omHbmOXWITDmUcnSLppTHC7Arh7SIsddNmIACFCeS5y16q7SJ27yV8wbo8eF_08qt/s400/nsm+front+left.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimkZbBEqTvuPkKUahu9qB9NnlG4qi4eiRW5rUDJirRuT6XCTihVfhNmhTQcibH-LZm1HI4uggLLFXXdVUV1tLl5ckztZcETzTJxbC7DtyhI1oy2gPWrGN0QbanU512E92VK_13S3GirezY/s1600/nsm+front+right.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimkZbBEqTvuPkKUahu9qB9NnlG4qi4eiRW5rUDJirRuT6XCTihVfhNmhTQcibH-LZm1HI4uggLLFXXdVUV1tLl5ckztZcETzTJxbC7DtyhI1oy2gPWrGN0QbanU512E92VK_13S3GirezY/s400/nsm+front+right.jpg" /></a><br />
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Ambrosi<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCbhdgeyx1jAGsrEEaxb8wjPBdv-FdQ6ou6L9Fn6iHj5fJKa2U6igtF9Uc5jPo4WhZkkjWAZKxJ7fi_NNwxQwRgO0d13SnVyP_siYly_mjBZkL6bZjpw4zrOVeWuOXK0wbmo1tRNTivWmZ/s1600/ambrosi+back.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCbhdgeyx1jAGsrEEaxb8wjPBdv-FdQ6ou6L9Fn6iHj5fJKa2U6igtF9Uc5jPo4WhZkkjWAZKxJ7fi_NNwxQwRgO0d13SnVyP_siYly_mjBZkL6bZjpw4zrOVeWuOXK0wbmo1tRNTivWmZ/s400/ambrosi+back.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFh9YgoxLtJPhh8hRwlnzRW0EUvsBDuOQ99FtjooR-vgJ-rHEp6OSZyrtNMZIwy9AX_wFY9RQJVggaiJ_vXPLSZN1rsh0SuVTd4JQsfEd5nlwAJ_hWeGsExDt2HPRXiRmuQ19wnU4vQqg/s1600/ambrosi+front+full.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFh9YgoxLtJPhh8hRwlnzRW0EUvsBDuOQ99FtjooR-vgJ-rHEp6OSZyrtNMZIwy9AX_wFY9RQJVggaiJ_vXPLSZN1rsh0SuVTd4JQsfEd5nlwAJ_hWeGsExDt2HPRXiRmuQ19wnU4vQqg/s400/ambrosi+front+full.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBc8b2F6lG1VWyOdxljdH7z9pG72aXLf_1-l3wMXTZlOi-aJ7sdPhdUsG2bNN4tVBXOxDhxPhOYw-pyALpbiJ83yEHHzAv9MSbCvqPHr8-VDsn_p-jdY7riiRDftdtHjNV2FWxp1Zl9iN2/s1600/ambrosi+front+left.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBc8b2F6lG1VWyOdxljdH7z9pG72aXLf_1-l3wMXTZlOi-aJ7sdPhdUsG2bNN4tVBXOxDhxPhOYw-pyALpbiJ83yEHHzAv9MSbCvqPHr8-VDsn_p-jdY7riiRDftdtHjNV2FWxp1Zl9iN2/s400/ambrosi+front+left.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHzKYYVEOS9jY6hLunh4GTxkkzMz9TwGUsXE8_-_3Zy-zhi0_u33TODqnPr4LCxWR2Prmrf66EJinCi9URB3IZOs0HoTtskysr_iVjQjOCPunvDruqKnl5jikI2GLY4z85GSe0jqjmDj-4/s1600/ambrosi+front+right.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHzKYYVEOS9jY6hLunh4GTxkkzMz9TwGUsXE8_-_3Zy-zhi0_u33TODqnPr4LCxWR2Prmrf66EJinCi9URB3IZOs0HoTtskysr_iVjQjOCPunvDruqKnl5jikI2GLY4z85GSe0jqjmDj-4/s400/ambrosi+front+right.JPG" /></a><br />
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Steed<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5wPTlrjX_aSsNJCsH-KXNSBuRab8JSnFxf2rlMniAf87xqrRYWU2wmj8erjuiMmfGcRZOxvYua5Zb77t3zsu0j6D-2gCKIQmqKn7BwNcsevtQajTfcAr3agLLWxhmzjCHqWnnwriJDo_O/s1600/steed+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5wPTlrjX_aSsNJCsH-KXNSBuRab8JSnFxf2rlMniAf87xqrRYWU2wmj8erjuiMmfGcRZOxvYua5Zb77t3zsu0j6D-2gCKIQmqKn7BwNcsevtQajTfcAr3agLLWxhmzjCHqWnnwriJDo_O/s400/steed+back.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBpZhS2hWc6gmphbxslLWRFxZFdOgbPKIb3_HyV01XvJUdghRaWbVJPj_MHJaTl5W9IHa4ksLfNUL9ARsYh3NXJvMB3gY_hsLNecNnK1ye29JS3wvjL3TsMaBEhtQpl30p50nFuAtI19Lh/s1600/steed+front+full.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBpZhS2hWc6gmphbxslLWRFxZFdOgbPKIb3_HyV01XvJUdghRaWbVJPj_MHJaTl5W9IHa4ksLfNUL9ARsYh3NXJvMB3gY_hsLNecNnK1ye29JS3wvjL3TsMaBEhtQpl30p50nFuAtI19Lh/s400/steed+front+full.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin8KE1F9OT0Cvt8UEIlhR1w5Dbr-3YLTzqJlPtDle9rbwgH9PrC6T08IjAcjX3PZIaOPMIBm6z7FD6yIcaCHV5MT_FEAtquPYX_w-7eEsZhnB9h2zaxoA61yU8ET74zPtRq51sbYAwfz0e/s1600/steed+front+left.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin8KE1F9OT0Cvt8UEIlhR1w5Dbr-3YLTzqJlPtDle9rbwgH9PrC6T08IjAcjX3PZIaOPMIBm6z7FD6yIcaCHV5MT_FEAtquPYX_w-7eEsZhnB9h2zaxoA61yU8ET74zPtRq51sbYAwfz0e/s400/steed+front+left.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEeu9NXA5Tavb-knQ_lgjqa-bcaZQB3Z-nkYR9TBXlaIi3lIuN4ZNZcR36l_jC-sFZnYKxXzaT34bQ4lCb_reiu8ENxOXuGJxpGCENyJTpnVhpe6Fz9yAYnJiO2DWy6l_7FK_t0EynpX3e/s1600/steed+front+right.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEeu9NXA5Tavb-knQ_lgjqa-bcaZQB3Z-nkYR9TBXlaIi3lIuN4ZNZcR36l_jC-sFZnYKxXzaT34bQ4lCb_reiu8ENxOXuGJxpGCENyJTpnVhpe6Fz9yAYnJiO2DWy6l_7FK_t0EynpX3e/s400/steed+front+right.jpg" /></a><br />
R. Jeffery Diduchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04496162251250444133noreply@blogger.com2