Don't mind me. Just trying out some new video settings.
Padstitching from Jeffery D on Vimeo.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
skip to main | skip to sidebar
About Me
Posts
Labels
- Agreman (1)
- Ambrosi (1)
- Anderson and Sheppard (1)
- Andrew Rogers (1)
- Apparel Arts (1)
- apprenticeship (1)
- Ariston (2)
- armholes (2)
- Asola Lucida (4)
- B & Tailor (1)
- backs (1)
- Balenciaga (1)
- barchetta (1)
- Bespoke (1)
- Boglioli (1)
- Books (1)
- Boutonniere Milanaise (2)
- breast pockets (2)
- Brioni (3)
- Butler Luxury (1)
- buttonhole thread (2)
- Buttonhole twist (1)
- buttonholes (9)
- Cabrera (1)
- canvas (4)
- canvas fronts (1)
- Capper & Capper (1)
- Caraceni (3)
- Castiglione (1)
- Chanel (2)
- chest canvas (1)
- Chester Barrie (2)
- Chris Depos (1)
- Cifonelli (1)
- Claire Schaeffer (1)
- Claire Shaeffer (2)
- Classic Tailoring Techniques (2)
- Cloth Merchants (1)
- collars (2)
- Craftsmanship (1)
- Cuneo Martello (1)
- cutting (1)
- D'Avenza (2)
- Dart (1)
- darts (1)
- David Coffin (2)
- DB (1)
- Despos (1)
- Documentary (1)
- drape (8)
- Drew Brees (2)
- dry cleaning (1)
- Dugdale Brothers (1)
- Durkopp-Adler (1)
- Edward Sexton (1)
- Edwin De Boise (1)
- escorial (1)
- F. R. Tripler (1)
- felling (2)
- Feruch (1)
- Finishing (3)
- fishtail (1)
- fitting (2)
- Flannel (1)
- Football Jersey (1)
- Gieves and Hawkes (1)
- Gimp (3)
- Gutermann (1)
- H-Tech (1)
- Hammer dart (1)
- hand sewn shoulders (1)
- hand sewn sleeves (1)
- Hand Tailoring (1)
- Hangers (2)
- Hardy (1)
- Harrisons (4)
- Hart Schaffner Marx (1)
- Haute Couture (2)
- Hems (2)
- Henry Poole (3)
- Hickey Freeman (5)
- Holland and Sherry (2)
- Hong Kong (1)
- Huntsman (4)
- IACDE (5)
- Indochino (4)
- Instagram (1)
- ironwork (4)
- jeans (1)
- Kemp and Hewitt (2)
- Kiton (1)
- Knickers (1)
- lapels (2)
- lining finishing (1)
- Logsdail (1)
- Louise Collection (1)
- Louise Slaughter (1)
- Louise Slaughter Collection (1)
- machine padding (2)
- maintenance (1)
- Making Trousers (3)
- matching (2)
- Maurice Sedwell (1)
- measuring (1)
- Men of the Cloth (3)
- Men's Factory-Made Clothing (1)
- Milanaise (1)
- milanese (1)
- Minnis (3)
- Mitchell System (1)
- MTM (2)
- Napoli Su Misura (1)
- National Tailoring Academy (1)
- O'Mast (1)
- Online MTM (1)
- Online Shopping (1)
- overcoat (1)
- Oxxford Clothes (2)
- pad stitching (5)
- padstitching (2)
- pagoda shoulders (6)
- Pattern drafting (2)
- Perkins device (1)
- Pickstitch (1)
- pickstitching (1)
- pockets (4)
- pressing (1)
- privacy pocket (1)
- Purple label (1)
- radio frequency (1)
- Raffaele Caruso (1)
- Ralph Lauren (1)
- Ralph Lauren Purple Label (2)
- Rave FabriCare (2)
- Ready To Wear (1)
- Regal's (1)
- RFID (1)
- Richard Anderson (1)
- Robert Jeffery (1)
- rope shoulder (1)
- Rory Duffy (2)
- Rundschau (1)
- Saint Andrews (1)
- Samuelsohn (4)
- Santandrea (1)
- Savile Row (3)
- Scholte (1)
- Schools (1)
- scissors (2)
- seat (1)
- sewing buttons (1)
- sewing by hand (1)
- Sewing Machines (1)
- shaping (2)
- sharpening (1)
- shears (6)
- shielding (1)
- shoulder pads (1)
- shoulders (2)
- Sizing (1)
- sleeve (1)
- sleeves (2)
- Smalto (4)
- soft tailoring (4)
- sprezzatura (1)
- Steamers (1)
- Steed (2)
- stripes (1)
- Strobel KA_ED (1)
- Suit Factory (1)
- Super 150s (1)
- Super Bowl (2)
- taping (1)
- The Hanger Project (1)
- The Louise Collection (1)
- The Rake (1)
- thimbles (1)
- Todd Snyder (1)
- Tom Ford (2)
- Tommy Nutter (1)
- Tristan threads (1)
- trousers (4)
- True Fit (1)
- Tuxedo (1)
- Vendon (1)
- vents (2)
- Vergolina (1)
- vintage (1)
- wadding (1)
- Walter Morton (1)
- Welsh and Jefferies (1)
- Whife (2)
- Yves Saint Laurent (1)
- Zegna Couture (3)
9 comments:
Ahh, so that's the way padstitching is done. It seems to be more freehand than I imagined, or does the spacing of the stitching depend upon the area of the garment being padded?
A good-looking glen urquhart, by the way.
JMB
I love your video, but if you could go in slow motion for a slower learner. And if you could show it from the side view. I could turn my computer screen around and try and practice alongside. I'm so excited you are trying this.
The spacing will depend on personal preference, mostly, but generally the lapel is done parallel to the roll line. I will switch directions in the point of the peak to keep the point flat.
Don't get too excited yet, Lynn! It's just me and a tripod and I'm just learning my way around the buttons and the settings and the uploads and the file hosting sites....... This is the equivalent of a "testing, testing, one, two..." It'll be a while before I'm able to do anything useful. But if you want to try it, just go in parallel rows from the roll line out, rolling the layers over your hand. You may notice that I squeeze gently with my thumb to work just a tiny bit more canvas over the cloth- this gives a nice, full roll. Just don't overdo it.
The cloth is from Dugdale, BTW.
[off-topic]
In Dutch we call the way you're sitting 'kleermakerszit' (sitting like a tailor).
(I just saw that the French and Germans use a similar term: resp. "assis en tailleur" and "im Schneidersitz".)
[/off-topic]
Looking forward to seeing more video's!
NOBD
Jeffery,
I see that you hold your thimble like Chris Despos, in that you move your hand sideways in a line parallel with your knuckles. My old boss had me pad stitch a deerskin jacket for a friend of his. In addition to stabbing myself regularly with the chisel point needles, I evolved my technique so that I rotated my hand 90 degrees and put the needle (against the thimble) in the middle of my fingernail. That gave me a lot more power and I found that I got comfortable pad stitching lapels that way on regular cloth.
Joel
Jeffery, thank you! Your blog is such a wealth of information.
sewsy
Great video. It's great to see it done. I hope to see more videos as well as the deconstructions. Fascinating stuff. Thanks for sharing it with us.
I LOVE you! What an inspiration.
Shelly
Post a Comment