Friday, November 11, 2011

Roll

roll

canvas

IMG_4808

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14 comments:

s. said...

i'm getting a wonderful nostalgic feeling looking at these...

s.

Benjamin E. said...

Thank you!
Why did you pad the shoulder and roll line from the inside if the rest was from the outside? Also, did you use felt for the bridle tape?

Jeffery Diduch said...

Benjmain-

The shoulder is padded like that to make a forward pitch to the shoulder (concave) and then from the outside to give a convex shape to the chest. Others may do it differently.

Jeffery Diduch said...

Oh, and the bridle tape is straight-cut cotton.

Dan said...

I notice there is no vee taken out of the shoulder, yet you've still created the concavity there. Is this just by stretching the front of the armscye?

Can't wait to see the finished product.

Jeffery Diduch said...

Dan-

The vee is there in the canvas, but the felt can be shaped easily so you don't need to insert it (or take it out at the chest dart) on that layer.

J

brendan said...

Thank you for posting. great cloth and lovely tailoring (as usual!). Love the fine lapel hand padding. Just a question do you prefer the front canvas to be put on the straight or bias? Is it correct that a canvas put in on the bias doesnt need the cuts/vees in the shoulder (needin just an iron to shape it)? Many thanks

Jeffery Diduch said...

brendan-

I prefer to cut my canvas on the straight grain, not the bias. Cut on the straight grain, the shoulder is on the bias; were you to cut the canvas on the bias the shoulder would be on the straight grain and even less shapeable.

J

Christopher said...

Jeffery, Is there any reason for the direction of padstitching? For example could you have done it more horizontally rather than vertically? Does that give a different result? Thanks!

Jeffery Diduch said...

Christopher- absolutely. The lapel is rolled over the hand as I stitch so the stitching must be parallel to the roll line. The only spot where it is horizontal is on the point of a peak lapel where you reverse the direction to help keep the point flat.

J

Anonymous said...

Hi jeffrey,

Good day!

what thread do you use for pad stitching and what do you call/type and canvas did you used for this. where can I buy all of it?

thanks in advance!
m.

Jeffery Diduch said...

m.- I use glazed cotton thread for padding the chest and regular sewing thread for padding the lapel. The canvas is known as wool canvas or hymo and is available at tailor supply shops- where do you live?

J

Anonymous said...

Do you know where can i buy online a glazed cotton and what is the purpose of using a glazed cotton on the chest part? im learning to tailor a suit and im using roberto cabrera book as my reference. im confused in what type of materials to used for the interlining as described on the book.

now i know that a canvas also known as hymo but the other stuff to put inside im totally lost. hehe

Many thanks!
I lived in hong kong! :)

Jeffery Diduch said...

I am sure B Black would have it, though you are probably better going through Richard James Weldon. Glazed cotton is better for basting and certain operations because it is strong and doesn't knot as easily. As far as the stuff that goes inside, you can either dig through the blog for indications, or you are best to ask a tailor to show you what he is doing.

Best
J

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