Monday, March 11, 2013

Fitting Jeans

A follow-up to my last post, but this time aimed at the SW&D crowd.

I have trouble finding jeans that fit. If your seat-to-waist ratio is greater than the six or seven inches that is industry standard or you have muscular legs, then you probably have similar issues. When I find a pair that fits in the seat and thighs, the waist is usually two inches too big. The last post was about adding darts to dress trousers- I do this with jeans as well. Taking two darts in the back I can remove from 1 1/2" to 2" in the waist; this takes care of the added circumference but also makes for a more flattering fit in the seat.

GS2e_2

GS2e_1

GS


Regarding the question about the back yoke for jeans;

Starting with a basic block with one or two darts, draw your yoke line and split the piece, adding seam allowances. Cut along one dart leg and close the dart, repeat for the second dart, then smooth out the waist and yoke seam lines.

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9 comments:

Anonymous said...

I have big, athletic legs and this would be a great idea. At what point, though, does it get silly to buy a pair of jeans and then (in my case) take them to a tailor to get the legs tapered and darts in the waist?

Even buying good quality jeans on discount, when factoring in tailoring, you're looking at almost $100 per pair.

Anonymous said...

Consider your proportions to be an asset not a problem.

Steven T said...

To anonymous above, You can always DIY. I do thi sall the time. My secret passion is to be 1/4 as good as JD. I know it is tough but I keep on trying.

poppykettle said...

I'm with Steven. I'm amidst of trying to draft some jeans for my beau based on his favourite gstars (albiet with alterations for a better fit ) and this is exactly the kind of thing he needs.
Although - I also agree with anonymous #2 :)

Anonymous said...

Jeff, you lucky guy to get your jeans to look so good.

Aaron & Brenda said...

I usually do this same alteration except I actually cut the material away behind the side belt loops to eliminate the bulk. I use a zig zag or a back and forth straight stitch to reweave the edges together. Mount the belt loops back over it and the darts are invisible. For me, a crotchpiece is also necessary to give a little more room to the seat.

Anonymous said...

I feel so much better about myself knowing I am not the only one that does this! I am a girl though with a little waist and *ahem* some junk in the trunk. After getting frustrated with my pants I resorted to this.

Kim said...

Hey Jeffery! You look great! The cutey with the booty. ;-)

Anonymous said...

I have a similar build, so I intend to draft my own pattern for a better fit. I have not tested this yet, so I will have to see if my theory holds up. However, because a classic jean has a back yoke, it seems to me that the necessary adjustment for prominent glutes should be possible in the draft of the yoke. Has anyone here tried this?

Voet

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