Saturday, November 22, 2008

Plaid matching

Back matching

Some tailors are not so concerned with matching patterns while others are obsessed by it. I am of the latter school. The photo above is a jacket by Paul Smith; he has some extremely clever people working for him. Notice how the plaid of the sleeve matches the plaid of the jacket (well, the right is a little off)? This is the first time I have ever sen this. Is it a fluke? Can it be reproduced? I can reliably match the sleeve to the front every time, so is it possible to do the same on the back? I have been puzzling over this for a while. Once conclusion that I have come to is that so long as I have the little "wedge" where I make the front pocket (is there a real name for that wedge?) I will not be able to balance the sleeve plaid on the back. When my laptop is feeling better and I get Illustrator back, I will post a draft explaining what I mean. I think I am on to something, but to do it I have to eliminate that little wedge and I think that might cause the lower front to kick out a bit so I am hesitant; I have never had much success without it. Does anyone have any thoughts on the matter? Does anyone even care?


J said...

RE: wedge for pocket. I've heard the adjustment for a full belly (which produces the same wedge) called a "donlon wedge".

Personally, I call it a dart - either as a full belly adjustment or just somewhere to insert the reece pocket.

Since I standardize the fisheye dart following the front piece to 3/4" (or, 3/8" on the half) because of automated dartsetters (or, scaled to the size of the pattern on a custom suit), I need somewhere else to take out the rest of the shape. The dart/wedge at the pocket setdown area is as convenient a location as any.

R. Jeffery Diduch said...

Donlon Wedge! That's the word I was looking for! I do the same as you, and for the same reason. I had removed it on some of my softer garments for a while but found that the front did not sit as well on many people so I now try to keep it for all but the skinniest people..

Anonymous said...

I would like you to comment on this:

Do you agree?


Anonymous said...

I don't know why you don´t want to comment on the above mentioned issue, but of course I respect it. I, as a consumer, find it interesting though to learn something from the expert craftsmen like you and your british colleague. It helps me to avoid buying something that is not made properly.

Otherwise a very, very informative blog that I appreciate very much.


R. Jeffery Diduch said...


Thank you for your kind words. The post you reference contains a lot of information, some of which I agree with, and some of which I don't. I'm not sure, however, that it would be gentlemanly to comment and it would require a point-by-point statement or rebuttal.


Jack said...

Could you post the draft (Illustrator) explaining what you mean by the 'wedge' at front pocket - 'donlon wedge' - I have trouble identifying what it is, and even after doing an online search, have been unable to identify this on the pattern, unlike say the front dart, front dart till hem etc. Thx!

Marysia said...

Hi there, I am such a novice in respect of the discussion you are having. However,I do think that matching is important.

I am embarking on my second Chanel Style Jacket, using Claire Shaeffers Vogue 8804 pattern.
As I love plain fabric, and have decided madly ( the design not Linton of course, which is lovely)to purchase Linton Boucle which is red with black one inch squares woven into the boucle, I think Help is the word that springs to my mind.

The sleeve is in three pieces, and I am being told that it would be a good idea to re-draft mind just goes blank!
How I long for the opportunity to sit and learn these things from someone who knows what they are doing. I am ok if I can look and learn. Oh for a book from you Jeffrey; would you ever consider it. You have a wealth of fans just waiting for the announcement!!

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