I don't know why I have always hated the term "pagoda shoulders", but I do. Spalla insellata sounds a little better if you speak Italian but sounds pretentious to those who don't. Well, whatever.
But to something more important. I think that the survival of our craft depends not only on the propagation of the technique but also the survival of our suppliers. It's getting harder and harder to find the necessary stuff for making nice suits so when I find someone who makes it just a little easier I like to support them. I normally buy cloth in large quantities from the Italian mills, but when I want to cut something special, they aren't very helpful. Enter people like Andrew Rogers, from whom you can buy half a meter of Fox, Minnis or Harrisons cloth if you want; we need to keep people like this in business. So if you like the cloth I used for my suit, check out his stuff here or at britishclothsales@gmail.com; he offers good service. And tell him I sent you.
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13 comments:
I like it. You should post more pictures of it. Maybe the skirt could be a bit more flared?
Flared skirt, huh? Actually, when I cut it, I cut it along the lines of David Ward when he was at Poole's- a little longer, nipped waist, flared skirt.... But I am already on the hippy side (which is why I need strong shoulder treatments to balance me out a bit) so the thing looked unbalanced. I need to spend more time in the gym, I guess.
How do you get the "pagoda shoulders"? I would like to be able to produce that, but can't quite figure out how.
I'd love to sew/tailor ladies outfits as nice as that.
Do you know of a bespoke tailor who makes good, clean pagoda shoulders (as you have)? The closest thing I can find are OTR like Tom Ford or over exaggerated rollino styles, that appear puckered and unclean. I feel hesitant asking a tailor who does not specialize in this style, as it is obviously quite tricky to do. Thanks,
John G
John-
Are you located in the US or Europe? In the US, Chris Despos, Bill Fioravanti and Frank Shattuck come to mind.
Have actually just relocated from NYC to Rome, so was hoping to get a clean chest, pagoda shoulder with very light construction in Rome/Naples, but may wait and try to see Mr. Shattuck in a few months when I'm back.
I'm sure you can find it all over Rome- ask for the Spalla Insellata (Naples will tend to not be as clean as Rome, construction-wise, of course)
Check out this gallery image of Frank's work http://www.fshattuck.com/gallery.html#0 and tell him I sent you.
Just checked out his site. Those shoulders are really great. I am going to check out Sartoria Ripense over here, whose site I've just come across, and if that doesn't work out will certainly go visit Shattuck upstate. Thanks for the feedback.
Best,
John
Also, if you know anything about Ripense, please share!
Don't know anything about Ripense, but I do know that Frank gets to the city frequently so you wouldn't have to travel to see him.
Great, I should be back in a few months and will drop him a line, unless Ripense seems to be able to do the trick. I was much easier to please before I found your site! Ignorance is bliss...
Jeffery , you would be at the top of the trade in any era . With great admiration , Frank Shattuck..
That's very kind of you, Frank.
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