Saturday, September 26, 2009

Soft jacket completed

Now that I'm done the jacket, I should really shorten those shirt sleeves....

Cloth 12 oz 100% wool by Reda (same Italian mill that did my drape jacket cloth). No chest piece, no sleeve head, no wadding, no shoulder pad, mother of pearl buttons. Whereas more structured shoulders have the sleeve seam allowances opened or turned toward the sleeve, in this case, like a shirt, the seam allowance is turned toward the body and pick stitched in place. By hand, of course.

soft2

Inside, not much else, either. French seams, lining in the sleeves but that's it.

inside

Now where is that flannel?

Thank you all for the comments. In response to malwae's question, here is a close-up, but you don't see much; the stitching should be subtle and the colouration is such that it is hard to see anything. However, the ridge formed by the reversed seam allowance is visible. Not much to see on the inside.

sa
inside

As for Jordan's question about the breakpoint, the collar is what controls where the lapel will break. The chest piece, bridle tape and pressing may help to support it, but the collar must be on right for it to break in the right spot; that's why the forumites' experiments with "re-rolling" button-3 jackets into button-2 or 3-roll-2 are ill-advised- you really need to alter the collar to get the lapel to consistently roll to a different point.

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8 comments:

paco peralta said...

Beautiful jacket Jeffery. I love this style of jackets. Here in Barcelona, are very usable. I have two, too classic, a beige silk and a blue linen. I like the treatment of head of the sleeve, and, of course, the whole garment is superb. congratulations and thanks for showing this new work. You know? a curiosity. Here in Spain, tailors called these jackets: the English way. Do not know why.


greetings, Paco

Anonymous said...

Nice to see a man and his jacket can look so good without all the usual architecture
posaune

helpslip said...

I agree with Paco's assessment and would add that it would also be quite suitable on the left coast.

malwae said...

Would it be possible to see a close-up photo of the pickstitched seam allowance on the shoulder? (Would be interested in seeing both the inside and the outside.)

Thank you.

BENEDICT17 said...

Well done, Jeffery. I rather like the high-gorge notch lapel, though I can't quite figure out how you got it to roll so smoothly to the first button without a lot of structure inside the jacket. Can it simply be the art of pressing?

JMB

Lynn said...

I am amazed. It really is a beautiful jacket.

malwae said...

Thank you! It's beautiful work - I'd always thought that at least wadded sleeve heads were needed to make such a nice join on the sleeve. Very enlightening.

Andrew said...

Dear Sir,
I live in San Francisco and Paris. I would like to order a bespoke suit with spalla camicia shoulders. I rarely go to London (Rubinacci), or Milan(A.Caraceni), or Naples. Perhaps Charvet is a possibility as they don't have a house style. I did strike out at Loro Piana here in San Francisco as their house style didn't jive with what I'm looking for. Traveling for fittings seems excessive but may be my only possibility. Desperate for your advice. Thank-you in advance.

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